Arrow Build
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				ADW 123
- Posts: 1158
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:22 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
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				StefanJ
- Posts: 108
- Joined: Mon Feb 28, 2011 9:46 am
I'm struggling through the fusalage-tissuing on my Cessna 180. Your arrow's body covering looks just perfect!
How do you approch tissuing the curved portions? Individual panels? A larger panel wrapped around the whole rounded top (for example)?
The Cessna plans call for three little panels on top and bottom. The overlap between panels was tricky just to rough-trim . . . do I sand the seam after doping?
Thanks
Stefan
			
			
									
						
										
						How do you approch tissuing the curved portions? Individual panels? A larger panel wrapped around the whole rounded top (for example)?
The Cessna plans call for three little panels on top and bottom. The overlap between panels was tricky just to rough-trim . . . do I sand the seam after doping?
Thanks
Stefan
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				ADW 123
- Posts: 1158
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:22 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
on my super cub this is how i did it. i started with covering the section from where the wing mounting area blends in neatly with the fuse. put a dot of glue there, another one at the tail. the stick your tissue on. be sure to be mindful of the the grain! next, i cut slits into the sides where needed (use your judgement on this, but dont cut too many) now, youll need to connect the tissue to the sides of the fuse. just put a neat line of glue on the very very top edge of the side of the fuse. dont let it run down, if it does, you have used too much glue! only use a little to avoid having the tissue sticking to the side of the fuse, which is no fun to get off. i dd the same for the bottom. now, for the front, i did something very similar to the way i dd the back top and bottom. let me know once you have finished what i described previously and ill tell you whats next. 
make sure its thinned 50/50!
			
			
									
						
										
						make sure its thinned 50/50!
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				ADW 123
- Posts: 1158
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:22 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
no i did not. 
and elmers will not stick to plastic. you need canopy glue. i got some at my LHS. the stuff i have is non toxic (water based) and dries clear. of course, it takes some time to dry, so you have to use something to hold it down. if you check out my super piper cub build, im sure there is some stuff about it. in any case there is some good stuff on that thread so you might like to read it.
http://balsamodels.com/phpBB/viewtopic. ... +piper+cub
but in case you cant find it there, you must first put a small dot of glue in a few places where the plastic will touch. then, you put a little dot of glue on a pin, and stick it through the plastic, and this pin should be located on that dot of glue. then you let dry. you use cepillary action to do the rest, just outline the rest of the area with glue, and the glue will seem to suck right underneith it. maybe a little wipe down with a cloth to ensure no glue mess, and there you go.
			
			
									
						
										
						and elmers will not stick to plastic. you need canopy glue. i got some at my LHS. the stuff i have is non toxic (water based) and dries clear. of course, it takes some time to dry, so you have to use something to hold it down. if you check out my super piper cub build, im sure there is some stuff about it. in any case there is some good stuff on that thread so you might like to read it.
http://balsamodels.com/phpBB/viewtopic. ... +piper+cub
but in case you cant find it there, you must first put a small dot of glue in a few places where the plastic will touch. then, you put a little dot of glue on a pin, and stick it through the plastic, and this pin should be located on that dot of glue. then you let dry. you use cepillary action to do the rest, just outline the rest of the area with glue, and the glue will seem to suck right underneith it. maybe a little wipe down with a cloth to ensure no glue mess, and there you go.