Typhoon build

Squishyp38 · Post by **Squishyp38** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 2:58 pm

here it is:

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 3:37 pm

Looking good. The Typhoon is next on my list to build.
I'm guessing you are going to fly this one. If so, I have a suggestion.
The ends of your wing spars, where they stick inside the fuselage.... if you attach them to the adjacent former by adding a shim, this will increase the strength of the wing/fuselage. Helps it survive a bad landing.
Here is a link to virtualaerodrome, showing the same thing on a Guillow 900 series P-51
http://www.virtualaerodrome.com/image_d ... &offset=12
If the link doesn't work just look in my hangar at virtualaerodrome.
In the photo, you can see the shim between the former and the wing spars.
There is also a support under the spars,but that is not necessary. This helps me to set the dihedral correctly.
If you haven't covered the bottom of the fuselage you can still do this.
Just glue in the shim, install your wind a set the dihedral, glue the wings in place, and clamp together with some clothes pins or whatever you might have. I don't have the Typhoon plans to look at but, in your photo it looks like this model may not even need the shim because the spars are against the former anyway.

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Sun Mar 13, 2011 4:13 pm

This is good advice. It seems to me that the weak spot in this series is the fuselage/wing join.

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:04 pm

it looks to me that you are using cardboard as a work board, which is ok, however it wont be flat on a carpet. if you are flying, i would be woried about building the frames crooked. you will get a banana fuse and no one likes that.

Squishyp38 · Post by **Squishyp38** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 3:09 pm

It works for me, and the fuse is not pinned to the workboard anyway, so it is okay.

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:30 pm

When you get the the point of building your 2000 series P-38 you'll need a much larger surface and preferably one that is rigid and can hold pins. I've seen good results from those using a piece of ceiling tile from the home improvement store, and the price is right.

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:31 pm

The Typhoon is looking good.

StefanJ · Post by **StefanJ** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:44 pm

My first build was on a piece of foam core. Light and works will, but I've noticed they warp if left in the sun. Didn't effect my build, but I don't want to take a chance in the future.

My next two will be on cork boards. I found one -- set in a wooden frame, covered with a silver coating -- by the trash. (A "deep discount moving sale" . . . when someone leaving their apartment piles everything by the dumpsters.)

The other, a nice big wood-framed and backed board, I got for $4.00 from GoodWill.

I could build a 36" wing on either one of these!

redlite · Post by **redlite** » Mon Mar 14, 2011 5:46 pm

Good tip on the ceiling tile...it's what I use and if you ask for a damaged one (they always have a few with a corner knocked off), they are almost free. Someday I'll get the Guillows board as the ceiling tile is a bit crumbly and on the fragile side.

Joe

Squishyp38 · Post by **Squishyp38** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 11:51 am

Here is the finished avenger:

Japanese on the attack!

It flies Awesomely! (from what little I have seen from test glides.) But,
Does anybody have a good, easy to make freewheeling system? Because as soon as the rubber winds down, the plane instantly rolls right (because of the propeller, I think)

StefanJ · Post by **StefanJ** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 3:50 pm

Tissued already? Cool!

Are you planning on doping the tissue? (It doesn't look glossy so I assume it isn't, yet!)

Squishyp38 · Post by **Squishyp38** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 6:42 pm

Here is the finished typhoon:

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:04 pm

im not sure about the details of the typhoon, but if all the kits in that series are designed alike, then the root, should be engled just a little bit in. this way, you put on the wing to the fuse, and there is your diheadral. there is usually a little piece that shows the angle of your root ribs, and it is glued onto the wing too. now where you put your diheadral, on those middle ribs, the landing gear should be sandwiched inbetween those to formers.

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Tue Mar 15, 2011 7:06 pm

o i was wrong about the diheadral part, but the landing gear is usually put there

i just remember the mustand i built some years ago.

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Wed Mar 16, 2011 11:32 am

Squishyp38 wrote:Here is the finished avenger:

It flies Awesomely! (from what little I have seen from test glides.) But,
Does anybody have a good, easy to make freewheeling system? Because as soon as the rubber winds down, the plane instantly rolls right (because of the propeller, I think)

The right roll may not be the prop. Take the prop off the model, add some clay to the nose to put the airplane back in balance.
Give it a test glide over some tall grass or some soft surface. See if it will roll with no propeller at all.

As for a free wheeling system. the simplest one is to secure the thrust button to the nose of the model either using wraps of tape to make a snug fit or glue it. Then when the rubber band unwinds the prop shaft goes slack and sometimes will disengage from the prop allowing it to freewheel.
Gizmo Geezer sells a freewheeling mechanism.