What is too heavy to fly?

Thewonderfrog · Post by **Thewonderfrog** » Mon May 04, 2009 9:36 pm

The musketeer has a small amount of total wing area and is probably not the best long distance flier. Of course given enough power even a brick can be made to fly. If you set your model up to successfully glide, then it should fly. Replace the stock rubber with some tan rubber and it should be much better.

Anders · Post by **Anders** » Wed May 06, 2009 3:05 pm

I have been reading around in this forum, and moest people says that the wood in the kits are too heavy for rubber powered aircrafts, but good enogh for static display and rc. But i have been flying and building rc aircrafts for 8 years, and i think its iportant to say that it`s important to keep weight down in rc aircrafts too.
i`m currently building an Guillow Me 109 400series to rc.

icepick · Post by **icepick** » Fri May 08, 2009 8:38 am

i have built 5 of these and 0 have flown, and that's with following directions, careful balancing, soaking the rubber, blah, blah, blah.

Anders · Post by **Anders** » Fri May 08, 2009 10:05 am

that`s not good...
but i`m using an brushless engine and i think it wil fly.
it has much power and little wheight so i`m not that worried about its flyabillity.

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Fri May 08, 2009 2:08 pm

Very impressive 30 second, indoor flight for a model that size. I believe that under European scale rules the model must be launched ROG for 15 seconds, of acceptably realistic looking flight, for the static judging points to qualify. (Corrections to that notion graciously accepted.)

In US contests models are hand launched and the flight time is added to the static judging scores. This leads to models of airplanes with retractable gear being flown "gear up" and lighter models with somewhat less detail on them. Since they only have to fly for 15 seconds, rubber powered scale models built in the British Isles and Europe have incredible detail and wing loadings that would terrify builders on this side of the pond. (Imagine 70 gram peanuts!)

Mr Crayon · Post by **Mr Crayon** » Sat May 09, 2009 9:06 am

OK I will post photos soon, but remember this is my first buld EVER (it looks quite messy compared to scigs' builds). I have learnt many lessons along the way (and some still to come).

So my plane is pretty much assembled now, just need to finish the nose. Came out at 36 grams without balancing weight, or rubber. I don't think I will need too much weight to balance but I guess I'll see once I've finished the nose.
One thing I was wondering is, I have noticed many comments that there is always a need to add weight in the nose to balance. Typically how much have people needed?

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Sat May 09, 2009 2:11 pm

I personally test glide without rubber and prop in place. I add clay as needed, this is my starting point. Once it glides nice I add the rubber and prop, give it some winds and send it off flying. If there is still a stall, I will add a little down-thrust at the nose block before I begin to add more weight.

Mr Crayon · Post by **Mr Crayon** » Thu May 14, 2009 5:15 am

Here is my finished plane, for a first effort I'm pretty happy. Still haven't given it the first test glide yet and I think it may struggle to fly...

A grand total of 47 grams including 7 grams of nose weight to balance

I was a bit nervous about cutting a hole in my nose cowl as these kits aren't easy to come by out my way, but I needed a way to get better access in the nose. I read on another post that someone held the nose on with magnets, so I gave that a go....

So in a couple of days, I'll give it a throw and see what happens...

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Thu May 14, 2009 6:27 am

Looks just fine. Excited too hear how it glides.

thymekiller

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Thu May 14, 2009 1:41 pm

Looks good. You might have to enlarge the opening in B1 to accommodate the rubber band. You can use a dremel or wrap sanding paper around a large pen or dowel and sand away. Can't wait to hear the flight report.

Mr Crayon · Post by **Mr Crayon** » Mon Jun 08, 2009 9:45 pm

Ok Update:

It's been a while; I have given it the first test glide which went straight into a dive, crashed, tumbled and broke the rudder off. I had launched it over fairly bare ground which was a big mistake. Long grass next time.

I've mended the plane and am now waiting for good weather for another go.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Tue Jun 09, 2009 8:23 pm

I like to make those first few tests in the garage. Door closed. Start low and gental and work my way up. Soon enough, it needs to go outside. {sometimes

}

thymekiller

Mr Crayon · Post by **Mr Crayon** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:07 am

Second test glide (over long grass):

Took a little weight out of the nose so the balancing point is a little further back than is shown on the plans. The plane immediately dipped to the left and fell. Tested a number of times, same result.

After taking a closer look, it seems that the first crash had dislodged one of the wings slightly so that the dihedral was uneven.

Took the plane home and sliced through the cement attatching the wings and then reglued to set the dihedral even again.

Third test glide:

Success! Nice consistant repeatable glides. It did turn a little to one side, but didn't stall or dive at all really. Got a couple of small punctures in one wing which should be easy to repair.

Next trip out will be rubber powered.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Sun Jun 21, 2009 9:12 am

Good to hear !!!
Remember to start with just a few winds and work your way up. Also, the way you toss the plane plays a part in its flight. Not too fast, not too slow, correct angle, ect. Turns out, my wife is much better at hand launching than I am.
Also, prop needs about 3 degress down and 2 degrees right thrust. You will see how to adjust this by compareing the powered flight to the glide portion of the flight.

thymekiller