Gas engine

mr.charlse · Post by **mr.charlse** » Wed May 25, 2011 3:06 pm

No but this one will
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?produc ... =10&page=1

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Wed May 25, 2011 3:53 pm

yes, that one will. i think you can get a used one for much less than that though, but get a good one. i find that that one clip will fit a variety of engines. get yourslef a hot battery, and fuel, and clean that engine up.

you will find that U Control is a fairly simple concept. nothing more than "a powered rock at the end of a string" as Mr. parker put it. i cant describe it any better myself.

Supercubber95 · Post by **Supercubber95** » Wed May 25, 2011 4:48 pm

THANKS THANKS THANKS!!! NOW, what about the fuel? Where do I buy it online?

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Wed May 25, 2011 4:55 pm

do some google searching. i bet you can find some on ebay.

Pulsepilot · Post by **Pulsepilot** » Wed May 25, 2011 8:15 pm

I use sig 25% nitromethane champion airplane fuel in my .049's.

If you want to use more conventional glow plugs (which are easier to find) instead of a glow head, get one of these
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?produc ... =27&page=2

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:08 pm

Supercubber95 wrote:No way to clean it?

On other sites, some folks have talked about immersing engines, and boiling in antifreeze for a while.
You need to do this OUTSIDE as it will smell.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthre ... st17675765

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Wed May 25, 2011 9:12 pm

Pulsepilot wrote:I use sig 25% nitromethane champion airplane fuel in my .049's.

If you want to use more conventional glow plugs (which are easier to find) instead of a glow head, get one of these
http://coxengines.ca/product.php?produc ... =27&page=2

That is a great idea!

mr.charlse · Post by **mr.charlse** » Thu May 26, 2011 1:52 am

I use modeltechnics dynoglo, works grrrrrrrrreat

not the exact mix, but it works awesome for all of my engines.
you also need some Castor oil and not only synthetic because the synthetic oil doesn't lubricate the crankshaft.

Supercubber95 · Post by **Supercubber95** » Thu May 26, 2011 8:44 am

Wow! Okay. Thanks for all this help guys... We'll see how she goes...

mr.charlse · Post by **mr.charlse** » Fri May 27, 2011 4:43 am

another good tip is that these engine can start backwords, thus messing up your fingers. its a good idea to use a glove

Supercubber95 · Post by **Supercubber95** » Fri May 27, 2011 9:30 am

Okay thanks

I needed that tip...

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Fri May 27, 2011 3:34 pm

If you want to free up anything that is rusted try this idea that a friend sent me.

"I found this on Smokstak which is an antique tractor and engine web site:

Machinist's Workshop magazine actually tested penetrants for break out torque on rusted nuts. Significant results! They are below, as forwarded by an ex-student and professional machinist, Bud Baker.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrants with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a "scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oil ..... Average load*
None ............ ......... 516 pounds
WD-40 ............ ...... 238 pounds
PB Blaster ............ . 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ..... 127 pounds
Kano Kroil ............ 106 pounds
ATF-Acetone mix....53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix was a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone. Note the "home brew" was better than any commercial product in this one particular test. Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results. Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is about as good as "Kroil" for about 20% of the price. "

I have tried this myself. The first time was on a joint in some 60 year old steel water pipe that had been buried in the ground. The ATF-Acetone mixture freed it up after a ten minute soak and the threads looked like they had just been cut. I have been using it on anything rusted up since with great results.

After freeing up an old model engine I let it soak in a jar of petroleum spirits (Available in the paint department.) for a few days before washing it out with 91% alcohol and fueling it up to try to run it. I used this method to free up my first engine, a 1948 Spitzy .045, and it still runs with the original glow plug.

Supercubber95 · Post by **Supercubber95** » Fri May 27, 2011 4:18 pm

Wow! Thanks. I got some liquid wrench. I'll spray her with that, get it loosened up and get some petrolium spirits. Thanks SO much! I bet that thing will run like a top. We'll see!

*thumbs up*

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Fri May 27, 2011 4:49 pm

Supercubber95 wrote:Okay thanks I needed that tip...

And the tips of your fingers as well.

flyright · Post by **flyright** » Sat May 28, 2011 7:59 am

There are many excellent suppliers of control line equipment. Look on the web for : Brodak Manufacturing. or control line central, or RMS supply, or Sams stuff. I have built several Guillows kits and converted to control line flying..the last being the Dauntless .

Guillow's Model Builders Forum

Gas engine

old engine