No. 401 LC Messerschmitt Bf 109 C "Cäser" conversi
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				Supercubber95
- Posts: 218
- Joined: Wed Apr 21, 2010 2:13 pm
- Location: Belle Fourche, South Dakota
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				ADW 123
- Posts: 1158
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:22 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
this series looks like a easy build with the laser cuts. a good canidate i think for my next u control, after the hellcat. maybe i will do an R/C conversion. but like i have said before, as a 14 year old, i dont like blowing all of my money on r/c equiptment. i think providing you can get the mods down for it, it is farely simple with good equiptment. the lightest weight to maximum power ratio is prefered but much more expensive. in my mind. you have to pay more money for the best equiptment, but if you have the best equiptment, then your chances for achievingflight are greater. just my 2 cents.
			
			
									
						
										
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				jensheydel
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:57 am
Phugoid I agree with you it would be great to see Guillows bring all of their model lineups into the lasercut standard. There are still a number of other models they sell I would like to get in the air.
Thorn3 ... Hey there Bob,welcome aboard nice to read you here ... btw everyone Thorn3 and I have known each other for 30 plus years. If any of you ever need an answer to RC electronics and or engineering for model aircraft then ask Thorn, he usually has an answer.
ADW 123, how you enjoy this hobby is entirely up to you, some prefer free-flight then again others would like to try their hand at UC or RC. You are correct that good RC gear can cost alot, here where I live it is very expensive. But in buying good equipment up front you will have many years of use out of it which is a thought worth considering. Perhaps one day you will get around to getting your own RC gear?
Cheers, Jens
			
			
									
						
										
						Thorn3 ... Hey there Bob,welcome aboard nice to read you here ... btw everyone Thorn3 and I have known each other for 30 plus years. If any of you ever need an answer to RC electronics and or engineering for model aircraft then ask Thorn, he usually has an answer.
ADW 123, how you enjoy this hobby is entirely up to you, some prefer free-flight then again others would like to try their hand at UC or RC. You are correct that good RC gear can cost alot, here where I live it is very expensive. But in buying good equipment up front you will have many years of use out of it which is a thought worth considering. Perhaps one day you will get around to getting your own RC gear?
Cheers, Jens
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				scigs30
- Posts: 845
- Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:31 am
Guillows is doing the 300 and 800 series right now, but you have to remember that they won't release the new kits until most of the old stock is gone, just plain and simple business sense.  The 500 series is such a small group of builders it may be a while before those are released.  The larger birds will attract a lot of RC builders so I have a feeling those will be done first, but don't quote me on it.  All I know is I can't wait to convert the larger birds to electric RC.  I am eyeing the Stuka and Spirit of St. Louis.
			
			
									
						
										
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				ADW 123
- Posts: 1158
- Joined: Mon Feb 22, 2010 5:22 pm
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio
hopefully. ill come to you/thorn for help on it. i have some r/c gear, but i prefer a setup that goes together more. if i have learned one thing, its that setups (batteries, esc, motor, switch, reciever) CAN be switched around to give you the results you want, but its tricky to set them up so they are compatable. ill take a look at my R/C ing gear and maybe get some pics to you for your evaluation.
			
			
									
						
										
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				jensheydel
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:57 am
scigs30
The 300 series is exactly the series I would like to see next as an RC conversion for me. I always liked those older civilian planes. I might like a FW 190 as well out of the 400 range but one thing at a time.
ADW 123
I am sure everyone here will be there to help when the time comes, you can certainly post a pic of your current RC gear but it would help to also list what you currently have by name and model, either Thorn3 or myself can offer an opinion but I am sure others here will also offer good advice as to which direction you can go. Always keep in mind that learning goes both way, sometimes its the young ones who have the great idea not just the older ones in the group.
Cheers , Jens
			
			
									
						
										
						The 300 series is exactly the series I would like to see next as an RC conversion for me. I always liked those older civilian planes. I might like a FW 190 as well out of the 400 range but one thing at a time.
ADW 123
I am sure everyone here will be there to help when the time comes, you can certainly post a pic of your current RC gear but it would help to also list what you currently have by name and model, either Thorn3 or myself can offer an opinion but I am sure others here will also offer good advice as to which direction you can go. Always keep in mind that learning goes both way, sometimes its the young ones who have the great idea not just the older ones in the group.
Cheers , Jens
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				Phugoid
- Posts: 952
- Joined: Wed Jan 20, 2010 8:17 am
I both agree and disagree with Scigs about the potential laser cut of the 500 series kits:
"they won't release the new kits until most of the old stock is gone, just plain and simple business sense." I totally agree and there will be lots of these in stock......
but
"The 500 series is such a small group of builders it may be a while before those are released" I disagree with that since I've seem mainly 500 series kits in the hobby shops here (if at all) but the Guillows website says of the 500 series:
"Our most popular kit series
provides Easy to Build
scale WWII balsa model kits"
I think that of all of the kits these have a different form of competion for Guillows. These kits are right priced for Gifts for Dads and Husbands, therfore do not only compete with other modeling activities etc but pairs of socks and aftershave!.... Because of their Higher volume and relatively low cost, the laser V crunch economics may well be more of an issue. From my point of view I'd rather pay 20-30% more for light accurate laser cut wood (or light accurate printwood) than for die crunched oak.....But from Guillows point of view if 90% they sell sits in a cupboard forever then who cares?
			
			
									
						
										
						"they won't release the new kits until most of the old stock is gone, just plain and simple business sense." I totally agree and there will be lots of these in stock......
but
"The 500 series is such a small group of builders it may be a while before those are released" I disagree with that since I've seem mainly 500 series kits in the hobby shops here (if at all) but the Guillows website says of the 500 series:
"Our most popular kit series
provides Easy to Build
scale WWII balsa model kits"
I think that of all of the kits these have a different form of competion for Guillows. These kits are right priced for Gifts for Dads and Husbands, therfore do not only compete with other modeling activities etc but pairs of socks and aftershave!.... Because of their Higher volume and relatively low cost, the laser V crunch economics may well be more of an issue. From my point of view I'd rather pay 20-30% more for light accurate laser cut wood (or light accurate printwood) than for die crunched oak.....But from Guillows point of view if 90% they sell sits in a cupboard forever then who cares?
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				jensheydel
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:57 am
Alright back to our regularly scheduled build thread, here we go with the tail feathers

Laying out the bits of wood and setting it up for the RC gear.

I am no great fan of butt joints, instead I prefer to notch or slot as needed, since these parts will be Dremeled or drilled to lose some weight this method builds in some strength.

I like my old fashioned water-proof wood adhesive but here we need to place a piece of carbon fiber to strenghten the parts, only way is with either CA or epoxy, I prefer epoxy it is not as brittle and much easier to work with, besides CA stinks and really does not like sandpaper at all.

So there it is all ready to be lightened.
Cheers, Jens
			
			
									
						
										
						
Laying out the bits of wood and setting it up for the RC gear.

I am no great fan of butt joints, instead I prefer to notch or slot as needed, since these parts will be Dremeled or drilled to lose some weight this method builds in some strength.

I like my old fashioned water-proof wood adhesive but here we need to place a piece of carbon fiber to strenghten the parts, only way is with either CA or epoxy, I prefer epoxy it is not as brittle and much easier to work with, besides CA stinks and really does not like sandpaper at all.

So there it is all ready to be lightened.
Cheers, Jens
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				jensheydel
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:57 am
Getting hinged on the horizontal stabilizer, not exactly the easiest way to go but I like low friction hinges. Also got rid of some of the extra wood that is not really needed in order to allow for the added weight of the hinges. 

Filing in the notches where the hinge will sit.

Once the hinge is glued into place a small plate of balsa is glued over that. This makes it easy to attach the covering later.

And there it is ready for dope and paper.
Cheers , Jens
			
			
									
						
										
						
Filing in the notches where the hinge will sit.

Once the hinge is glued into place a small plate of balsa is glued over that. This makes it easy to attach the covering later.

And there it is ready for dope and paper.
Cheers , Jens
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				jensheydel
- Posts: 73
- Joined: Mon Jun 06, 2011 7:57 am
Thanks ADW123  it is a fun build thus far, though I tend to go overboard on stuff like hinges (simple fiber hinges would have done just as well but ...) I get a kick out of doing it the hard way. Now if I can get the covering on without wrinkles (always a challenge!) we are on the way.
 it is a fun build thus far, though I tend to go overboard on stuff like hinges (simple fiber hinges would have done just as well but ...) I get a kick out of doing it the hard way. Now if I can get the covering on without wrinkles (always a challenge!) we are on the way.
Thorn3 ... it figures you would remind me to use carbon instead of the steel pins after the thing is built LOL . No as a matter of fact I did not use carbon. I am not really a huge fan of the stuff except in limited use where nothing else will do.
 . No as a matter of fact I did not use carbon. I am not really a huge fan of the stuff except in limited use where nothing else will do. 
Cheers, Jens
			
			
									
						
										
						 it is a fun build thus far, though I tend to go overboard on stuff like hinges (simple fiber hinges would have done just as well but ...) I get a kick out of doing it the hard way. Now if I can get the covering on without wrinkles (always a challenge!) we are on the way.
 it is a fun build thus far, though I tend to go overboard on stuff like hinges (simple fiber hinges would have done just as well but ...) I get a kick out of doing it the hard way. Now if I can get the covering on without wrinkles (always a challenge!) we are on the way.Thorn3 ... it figures you would remind me to use carbon instead of the steel pins after the thing is built LOL
 . No as a matter of fact I did not use carbon. I am not really a huge fan of the stuff except in limited use where nothing else will do.
 . No as a matter of fact I did not use carbon. I am not really a huge fan of the stuff except in limited use where nothing else will do. Cheers, Jens
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				thorn3
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Sun Jun 12, 2011 2:32 am
I suppose you wanted me to mention carbon 'before' final assembly?  Now what fun would that be?    
 
Even funnier is that I was going to ask you if you were going to cut each hinge into two hinges, then use a carbon rod.
I know you want to keep things extremely light to keep with scale flying speed, but... The addition of tiny scallops at the points where stringers meet bulkheads, eliminates any creasing, sagging or wrinkling of the covering at those points. It bridges the gap between the two opposing planes, blending the gap into a smoothly flowing surface to mount covering on. Some light weight balsa works well in that application, as it is not structural. Thinking of doing that? May be a hair of a weight penalty though.
Ah... I mentioned that before you covered it... hmmm..
			
			
									
						
										
						 
 Even funnier is that I was going to ask you if you were going to cut each hinge into two hinges, then use a carbon rod.
I know you want to keep things extremely light to keep with scale flying speed, but... The addition of tiny scallops at the points where stringers meet bulkheads, eliminates any creasing, sagging or wrinkling of the covering at those points. It bridges the gap between the two opposing planes, blending the gap into a smoothly flowing surface to mount covering on. Some light weight balsa works well in that application, as it is not structural. Thinking of doing that? May be a hair of a weight penalty though.
Ah... I mentioned that before you covered it... hmmm..
