Wid's 180 and FW 190

[WIDDOG]

I was able to get the wings rough framed out. Nothing really to say about the rough framing of the wings. Everything seemed to fit and go together well. Next up the fuselage. Looks like I'm going to have to do some small pieces but should be doable.

[Bill Gaylord]

I don't hear this stated much, but the simplest method for lightening is to use light, contest grade wood.

Do you have a reliable M.O. supplier that can be counted on to send you exactly that? And if not, do you have a local supplier that will allow you to bring a digital scale to weigh the sheets you're interested in?

I built a 30" heavy built up construction ME109 using ultra light 1/16", 3/32", and 1/8" sheet, that was easily as light as a framed up 400 series Guillows kit, using the kit supplied wood, and this 109 has a LOT of wood.

Interesting. I'm wondering how well it would stand up under less than ideal outdoor conditions, such as a sudden unexpected wind gust sending it into a spin. Or maybe a cartwheel landing on rocky ground?

Hey, I might want to build one someday . It's just that I have my doubts about the durability of a 30" wingspan heavy built-up FF model using ultra-light wood exclusively in the construction.


zoomie

No point answering to sarcasm, seriously. You offer a lot of cynicism, critiquing, and advice for someone with 68 posts and no examples of practical experience. Internet forums are chock full of that. Anyone care to guess why David Duckett's not here any more? You're up next Widdog, it's your thread. BTW, Widdog has a good attitude. There's more to learn from him than just about models.

[WIDDOG]

I really hate to admit this but I used to be "One Of Those Members" nobody liked. It's been awhile ago but an advanced modeler let me have it big time. From than on when an advanced modeler tells me something I listen. When I was a teenager I had an Autographed Don Ross book. This is a great book but I really learned a lot from this great forum.

I also fully take responsibility for running a "Sloppy" Thread. If I can repair my Thread I will. I would like to say not as an excuse but more an explanation...

I have been becoming more and more interested in the Flying Aces Club Mass Launch Events. BTW I am a member or the FAC. I like this type of event where the better "Everyone" does the better the event is.

Keith

[Mitch]

I have mentioned this before. I get my contest wood from easybuiltmodels. When you get the wood it is color coded on the ends. As long as you cut from ONE end and preserve the other end you will always know what you have. The stringers they sell are cut from the sheets and are all 36" long. Other than that, when I buy balsa at a LHS I always take my scale in. I explain to a salesperson what I am doing and have never had a problem. I find that balsa in a LHS is not graded and the weights I found of a sheet of 1/16 balsa will vary from 7grams up to 14grams. I usually will buy all the sheets they have that are under 10 grams. When I get home I mark each sheet so I know what I have.

Mitch, Building Lighter to Fly Higher

[Bill Gaylord]

I have mentioned this before. I get my contest wood from easybuiltmodels. When you get the wood it is color coded on the ends. As long as you cut from ONE end and preserve the other end you will always know what you have. The stringers they sell are cut from the sheets and are all 36" long. Other than that, when I buy balsa at a LHS I always take my scale in. I explain to a salesperson what I am doing and have never had a problem. I find that balsa in a LHS is not graded and the weights I found of a sheet of 1/16 balsa will vary from 7grams up to 14grams. I usually will buy all the sheets they have that are under 10 grams. When I get home I mark each sheet so I know what I have.

Mitch, Building Lighter to Fly Higher

I find that balsa in a LHS is not graded and the weights I found of a sheet of 1/16 balsa will vary from 7grams up to 14grams. Key words there, which has been my experience also. The weight difference in sheets at the LHS is generally around 100% from my findings also, from lightest to heaviest. Whenever they get a new wood shipment, I buy the light stuff that I'll use in the future, whether I need it right then or not.

BTW Wid, that autographed Don Ross book would be a real collectors item today, for any FF enthusiast.

[WIDDOG]

[quote="Bill Gaylord"]BTW Wid, that autographed Don Ross book would be a real collectors item today, for any FF enthusiast.

Well when I went into the Army my Step Mother had a Garage Sale and sold all my stuff. Oh well I retired from the Army so it is all good. I now have a small library of books like. " Flying Scale Models by R.G. Moulton."

I decided that when I have the Cessna 180 finished I'm going to post about the P 38 build. I could use some advice as to what width wood to use on a 17 inch wing span P 38. I am hoping that I could use 1/16 inch thick 5 lbs Contest Balsa.

[WIDDOG]

I ran into a slight problem re-scaling is the landing gear. The kit comes with a premade landing gear wire. So they did not picture the pattern on the plans sheet. I happen to have a set of landing gear I borrowed off and old crashed Sterling Peanut Talyorcarft I happened to have in my model junk pile.

[zoomie]

I have mentioned this before. I get my contest wood from easybuiltmodels. When you get the wood it is color coded on the ends. As long as you cut from ONE end and preserve the other end you will always know what you have. The stringers they sell are cut from the sheets and are all 36" long. Other than that, when I buy balsa at a LHS I always take my scale in. I explain to a salesperson what I am doing and have never had a problem. I find that balsa in a LHS is not graded and the weights I found of a sheet of 1/16 balsa will vary from 7grams up to 14grams. I usually will buy all the sheets they have that are under 10 grams. When I get home I mark each sheet so I know what I have.

Mitch, Building Lighter to Fly Higher

No LHS here so will give EBM a try, thanks for the tip.

zoomie

[r wheatley]

I have that kit and looking over the plans I dont see any diehedral built in, am i over looking this or do you have to figure out how to do it yourself

thanks , ronnie

[WIDDOG]

I have that kit and looking over the plans I dont see any diehedral built in, am i over looking this or do you have to figure out how to do it yourself

thanks , ronnie

There is a part number E1 that sets an angle in each wing, at the Root Rib.

I got the P 38 kit in the mail today. It is a very nice kit. On this build I will try and preserve the kit as much as possible.

[r wheatley]

thanks for the help wid, guess I was'nt looking hard enough

[WIDDOG]

Hi R Wheatley Thanks for posting.

Question are you currently building a Cessna 180 as well ? If you are and its not to much trouble how about posting some pics ?


Well everything seems to be fitting together ok so far so good.

[David Lewis]

"Maybe the 303 Super Cub with it's 24" wingspan scaled 125% for a 30" span would work better."

Yes, I think an enlarged 303 will perform better than an enlarged 602 Super Cub. The 600 series kits were designed to be rugged, fast and easy to build, not light weight. With the 300 series, you can use contest (6 lbs/cu ft) balsa, narrow the width of the formers and tail outlines, eliminate the fuselage side keels, half the wing ribs and spars, and still be plenty strong.

[WIDDOG]

I was able to rough frame the fuselage. Everything seemed to fit ok. Will sand and start to cover soon.

[WIDDOG]

I was able to finish my Cessna 180 Semi Scale. It wieghs in at 15 grams minus rubber motor. Rembember i reduced the kit down to a Peanut sized model. Hopefully i will be able to try and fly it soon.