Tissue Covering

[jamesgood72]

Ugh - can we get rid of these spam posts?

This thread really helped me cover my first model in the supplied kit tissue! Thank you!

Here are some pictures :

http://www.virtualaerodrome.com/image_b ... _user_id=1

-James.

[TimsCustoms1982]

Sorry to revive such an old thread, but when using either the white glue/water mix, or the "dope" I see referred to a lot, which is best to use when you know your future paint plans include the use of masking tape? I already know enough to de-tac most tapes before using them from my styrene kit experiences, but I don't want to be ripping a nice paper job off once I get to that point. I'd like to stick with the white glue method for financial reasons, but would rather spend the difference for the dope than destroy my model.

[David Lewis]

The thinned white glue would be OK to paint the tissue. Any waterproof material, such as mylar, can be used to make the masking stencil. Then around the perimeter of the stencil, rub a 3M Post-it glue stick on the underside. After the stencil is pressed into place, you can also paint over the edge with clear paint to prevent paint from bleeding under.

[TimsCustoms1982]

Wow! 20+ years painting experience and you sir have just taught me TWO tricks I had never thought nor heard of before. Never occurred to me to use a clear coat to protect from bleed through like that and while I have seen the post-it strips before it never would have dawned on me to use them for a painting application like this. Thank you sir!

[NcGunny]

Also if you spray your paint away from the masking tape it will help to not leave such a big tape edge and help with stopping such a big chance of bleed through. (Hope this is clear enuf, so your paint isnt being blown into the tape line) lol..I'm sure you get what I am saying. Also I have used some of the frog tape lately, it seems AS good if not better than 3M masking tape.

[davidchoate]

I have used, and still use all of those methods. Depending on the application. I have no problem with the Guillows tissue. I preferred the silkspan on 400 kits, but it had a tendency to get too tight and warp. And I may do a display where I'll infill/sheet the entire thing. On RC I want a iron on lightweight for durabiklity, and a FF rubber no paint. I do prefer the real Dope as compared to Elmers and water or EZ Dope. I have used Elmers and water on My last couple tissue jobs, and it sems to hinder the "shrinking" amount. I prefer to apply tissue Dry. Using a glue stick.Then atomizer to shrink it.

[TimsCustoms1982]

I prefer to apply tissue Dry. Using a glue stick.Then atomizer to shrink it.

What is "atomizer"? I ask, as I used elmers and water on my first build with a mist spray of water to shrink the paper (Kit #905) but wasn't a fan of the bleeding effect of the glue and thought to try the glue stick method next time for cleaner application areas and better stretching. Just wondering if this is the same thing using a different term, or if it is another method of shrinking. Hadn't heard the term used yet, still VERY new at this.

[dirk gently]

Yeah, atomizer is the thing you use to spray stuff with water.

[TimsCustoms1982]

Ok, thanks. Given my experience with airbrushing I'm kinda feeling a bafoon for even having to ask that. For some reason my mind didn't put 2 and 2 together there not talking about paint.

[joecrouse]

I buy my tissue at Target, or Hallmark stores (good quality tissue there and you can get a Metric buttload of different colors for fairly inexpensive)

[heywooood]

The covering I use depends on the model I'm building. But I have done the wet tissue method - the monokote - and the thin balsa sheeting or in-fill method. When using tissue I use the white glue and water at about the same ratio as you -50/50
I also stack sand the wing ribs and formers prior to assembly. It is also a good idea to presand the parts while they are still on the sheets - whether it is a laser cut or die cut kit. I use a 180 grit for that. Just sanding enough to get a smooth surface...no fuzz
Lightly sanding the assembled components, wings, tail, fuselage prior to covering is also critical - call it wart removal - it prevents the large, unwanted lumps and bumps from occurring and gives you a nice, smooth aeroplane when you are all finished. I use a 180 grit first and then go to 220 for the final pass.
I don't know if this is true for everyone, but to me, sanding properly and carefully is the most critical part of the build. An airframe can be saved - or destroyed - in the sanding process. And the final finish is hugely dependant on how well the sanding portion of the build was executed.

[woundedbear]

Hi everybody,
I am planing on using the sheeting method,"as described by pimodel", for covering the frames on the rc conversions I plan on doing. I will be using wetted 1/32 thick contest wood in A grain for doing that.
To Jamesgood72 that's one more nice build you did with that 200 series Newport, the wooden prop you carved really made it look great. Did you use that wooden prop to fly It ? Also what kind of stain did you use on your struts ? Your Newport build has inspired me to buy a couple of the 200s for my stash.
For free flight models I plan on using SIG sand-n-sealer on the frames to seal them up and make them nice and smooth. Then I'll use the dry method to apply the tissue with SIG clear Super dope to attach the silk span to the frames. then spray with water to tighten the silk span up. Then I'll add 1 very light coat of SIG color dope thinned 50/50, "all of SIG's color dopes are low shrink". I think you should always use low shrink dope for small models to prevent warping the frames.
When building up the frames I will use some of the lightning tricks I've learned here on the forum.
There's one more tissue applying method that I've seen on youtube. It's a SIG product called Stix-it. You first applying 2 coats of 50/50 thinned clear dope, then sand the frames nice and smooth. Then you apply 1 coat of Stix-it and let it dry. After it has had time to dry to the touch, you apply you're covering using an iron. The heat from the hot iron activates the Stix-it and you cover with the material of your choice. That's suppose to work, I haven't tried it myself but I am going to get a can of Stix-it when I order the balsa wood for my twin electric motor design rc balsa and plywood airplane.
Well everybody have a good one.

[Jimmy]

Me ? I'm old school. Silk span and clear dope. Get the silkspan wet and Gently, yes, Gently, squeeze the water out. Not bone dry. Place it aside for a second and dope the area. Lay it on the leading edge and lay it down Gently with no wrinkles. Takes practice. You'll get the hang of it. I live south of Des Moines and it gets warm and humid. Need to work fast. I build in the house but dope up in the barn. Yeah, it can get "odiferous" as my beloved wife says. "Happy wife, happy life"

[Mitch]

Hi All,

Been away for a time... but I am still here...

Sometimes I use domestic tissue (for the color I want) I really like the silk span tissue in the 400 and 1000 series kits. My last FW 190 (400 series) I used kit silkspan paper. I attach dry with glue sticks. I get as much paper on as I can. For the fuselage I try to cover as much as possible with each sheet. I only apply the glue to the outline of the paper that I am attaching. I let the glue dry for 24 hours then spray with water. Then I spray with Top Flite LustreKote TOPR7501 Clear, 2 coats. Then I lightly sprayed with Testor's paint (rattle cans). I really liked the result... and the model did not weight any more than a model with domestic tissue with no paint.

I sometimes go to competitions, but I think I am a schoolyard flyer by heart. I really like using LusterKote for the dope. I have some in Aluminum TOPR7506 and plan to use that for my next Mustang.

Mitch ...

PS ... I am just got back to building and I am working on the Corsair in the 1000 series...