What kind of glues you use?

Ask other modelers for a little help / knowledge ?

Glues types

CA's
8
50%
White glue
8
50%
Ambroid
0
No votes
 
Total votes: 16

Fuel
Posts: 17
Joined: Thu Oct 26, 2006 10:02 am

Post by Fuel »

OK, I know what CA is now; superglue. I use that for sections and parts that need bending or held in place for a long while until the glue sets. Instead of holding together two parts for 15 minutes, I use CA which sets up in a few seconds.
scigs30
Posts: 845
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:31 am

Post by scigs30 »

Elmers or Titebond whits glues.
NayusDante
Posts: 2
Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 4:51 pm
Location: USA

Post by NayusDante »

I used I believe Elmer's Woodglue on my first one, but it took too long to dry and ended up being rather messy. Now, I'm using the Testors green tube, which is much easier to work with. Still, Testors tubes always get holes if you bend them too much. Squeeze from the bottom and never try to bend back where the tube has already been squeezed. Sure, it seals itself, but not without making a small mess.
Image
cdwheatley
Posts: 92
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:03 pm
Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire, England

Post by cdwheatley »

cdwheatley wrote:I use regular balsa cement for 99% of my model building, and cyano for those times when I need something to stick quick!
I still use balsa cement for joints that need a bit of adjusting before they set, but I've just recently begun using cyano for the majority of my model building. It's great - I can hold something e.g. a stringer in place and just brush cyano all round it and it's set in place in a few seconds. It's a lot quicker and easier!
moostang51
Posts: 21
Joined: Thu Jan 11, 2007 6:54 pm
Location: Jackson, NJ

Post by moostang51 »

I use cyano (5 - 15 second) the majority of the time. By using 3/32 stringers instead of the usual 1/16 and gluing at each connection individually on the formers, I hold it a touch above the former; this way when you sand there is a little more wood remaining when you sand to shape and there is no former showing when you cover. On pieces where centering and alignment is more critical, I might use a slower setting cyano so you can square up and pin for alignment. Learned this the hard way. LOL. Also I thought with the cyano, a little goes a lot further and sanding doesn't seem to be a problem. With the 30 second cyano, it's also great as a seem filler. I always used this on my 1/35 armour with great results.

On my next project, I plan on using a heavier silkspan as the Guillows tissue is pretty flimsy and even though I used the wet tissue application, the stingers are still visible. But on each project you learn a little more. Plus, any suggestions and techniques from David are always helpful.

I also never had a problem with the smell though I did loose a 1/2 oz. bottle one time from not cleaning the stem prior to storage.
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