I need help on my very frist build

[Phugoid]

Your Focke Wulf will be tricky to trim for a few reasons. Firstly it will end up being quite heavy, mainly because of the huge noseweight you will need, to take the place of the huge engine that should be there. Thus will make the whole model heavy, and so to keep in the air it will need to fly fast, (just like the real thing) so things are so much more sensitive.

Second the tail surfaces are relatively small, they are even smaller on the real thing

The low wing layout means that it is unstable ( but manoeuvrable). Obviously the real thing had to be, if you had a Spitfire chasing after you! This is because there is little to no restoring moment to bring the wings back level. As the centre of gravity is around the same position of the wings. On the 180 (or any other high winger for that matter) the c of g is lower than the wings, so the aircraft effectively "hangs" from the wings which is obviously more stable.

The way to think about it is that if the real thing is slow and steady, your model will be, and slow and steady is much better for free flight.

Compare the Spit and Cessna in the following videos, notice the difference in speed........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PVq1oFAf ... brfhNSXbiQ


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZhSddWdY ... brfhNSXbiQ


I don't think that the 180 is tricky to build when compared to the 500 series warbirds, just different. If you build it straight and as light as you can it will fly.

I used 3/16" rubber in both the 180 and cub, the last couple of posts in the 180 thread show knotting it etc.....

Andrew

[Jason K]

I was wondering how does the Messerschmitt BF-109 and hellcat fly??? Becouse my son wants me too build them to fly for him after I get better at this.( Flight trimming)

[Phugoid]

As above really, the Hellcat is the better bet, it does have a good wing and tail feather area.....

Andrew

[r wheatley]

i would love to be able to get flight like that

[Jason K]

So you are saying that the Messerschmitt BF-109 will act like the other to.. To heavy. What WWII planes fly good or fairly good in the 500s' and the 900s? I would like a fairly good to good flyer for my son to have when I get better at this.

Thanks
Jason

[WIDDOG]

My two cents on the whole thing is… Order one of these scales. http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Sc ... scale+gram

Than punch the data of the wood into this website. http://www.geocities.ws/billy_stiltner/balsacalc.html On the 500 series kit you need wood 12 lbs or under to get them to fly.

Also I recommend on the 500 series the Rufe built as a Zero with no landing gear and the wings held on by a rubber band. When it crashes repair it... When you have a terminal crash of the wings you can rebuild just the wings. This is just my opinion it’s probably wrong. One more thing you will need to build a good “Noseblock”.

[Phugoid]

All of the 500 series will be tricky to trim, as low wing fighters they are meant to be unstable, plus they will be heavy, both factors are the issue.

I really recommend hat you cut your teeth on one of the high wing models, a bit boring perhaps, but you have a better chance of success.

As Widdog pointed out none of he Guillows models use a proper nose block which will always be an issue. I agree about the lightness of the wood, but I would say that 12lb wood is stll a bit heavy. The spit in he video is all 6 and 8lb wood.

I made an attempt to make a nose block of sorts in the 180 build thread, you could copy that idea, or look out for some of scigs30 threads, he shows a neat adaption on some of his models including he 500 series if you are still determined. He is a superb modeller, but he makes it look deceptively easy (as all talented people do)

Andrew

[Jason K]

Andrew,
I ordered 2 180's yesterday from guillows. I agree with you on bulding a few top wings and maybe a few others ones out there too.I like top wings more anyways .Now on the other hand my son love bottom wings ..lol...I am going to use wood glue to build them.


The only white glue is elmers glue-all.And I seen that is not the glue to use..The closest hardware store is lowes or home depot too me.( box store)..So I am going too use wood glue being that is easy too find where I live.I live in the middle of no mans land Iowa.If anyone knows what name brand is carried in them box stores that is white glue and water proof..Let me know becouse I am going to the city on thrusday this week..

Thanks for the replies guys
Jason

[Phugoid]

Cheers Jason.

I can't help you on the glue though. Your state Is about the same size as England, a country where you can't really move without bumping into someone!

Andrew

[Jason K]

Wildog,

Thanks for the info. I do have a scale I bought one back in July just for this.I do like the idea of the rubber band to hold on the wing for easy repairs. I do know of a place where I can get competition balsa wood.That is the same place where I plan on getting one of the other top wingers from (scale).


Hi Andrew,
Well I found out what type of glue I am going to use for my builds for now on. It must be hard to live in a counrty that small. Here there is miles before you bump in tp someone.


On the 180 what size of strip wood does it need? I am thinking of getting back up balsa for this project. In what I am building next for the next project .I don't know I will able to fly it this winter tho .If a person can would be great. It is getting snow season here very soon. I will be boxed up in the house for 4-5 months I don't like winter at all.

Thanks again Andrew
Jason K

[Mitch]

Jason...
Looks like your getting some good advive... just home for a few days and catching up on the site... Mitch
PS I do not know for sure but I believe the 500/900 would be good flyers if built LIGHT... I built a few as a kid, but now enjoy the 400... Good Flying

[bills_a_dog_2]

i am building the same,also my first build.Came to site to find out how to cut notches also,, i took a Irwin 23EL5 Vise Grip 8-Inch Locking Sheet Metal Tool, cut a 1/16 notche in it,clamped the part with it,was able to cut Notches out with a Knife/and /or / blade quickly with no breakage or spliting. seems like if i need other size i will just cut the templet in the Irwin 23EL5 Vise Grip 8-Inch Locking Sheet Metal Tool again. good luck, Bill Littell

[Jason K]

My son and I have to get together to finish her up..It has some hanger rash on the wing from my cat chewing on it.I started too work alittle on that tonight.But I have 3 farmalls tractors comming in to rebuild so there my time again.But hopefully I should have it covered and sealed here soon.As soon as I do I will try too post pix of it.I have alot of ooopps in it. But like the guys Build more learn more and the better you get.My next one is the Cessna 180 so I can followsthe posts on here.That way I learn more tricks of the trade.


Hey every one I will be asking on how too cover the the fuse and the wing here soon.I know it is bottom to top on both but how big of sheets do I use??

Thanks
Jason

PS Never be in a hurry or just alittle hurry.It makes for alot of mistakes..Trust me..and I used CA glue never again.good ol titebond 3 water proof from now on for me.

[Wildpig]

......

Hey every one I will be asking on how too cover the the fuse and the wing here soon.I know it is bottom to top on both but how big of sheets do I use??
......

The largest size you can handle. The instructions show many little sections. I think they are too small.
Compound curves usually require small sheet sections,though It really depends on your ability. For a first build, use the largest sheet over the flat or gently curved surfaces.

[John G Jedinak]

JASON: Just a thought...but you mught consider following the instructions provided in the "How To" booklet that was included in the kit. Like I say, just a thought......