600 Series Piper Super Cub 95

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Wed Oct 13, 2010 3:25 pm

I needed a little clay and a little drownthrush, also used a Peck 6 inch prop.

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:46 am

I could not believe my luck when I woke up this morning. There was absolutely dead calm and lovely bright sunshine, a perfect early autumn day.

So the whole family went to the large park a few miles from home where I fly my models.

I put a slightly shorter and braided motor in. I also weighed the blue tack noseweight I used for trimming and replaced this with bits of lead in the nose.

I had about 700 winds on for both these flights and this gave enough power for a 30s or so motor run, and flights for around the same time. I might try a longer motor some time in the future, but my daughter and son were happy enough chasing after the flights we had.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S8fckjBSTek

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g9wUVTIMaNE

I doubt there will be a much better flying day in the up coming winter months....

hurt138 · Post by **hurt138** » Sun Oct 17, 2010 9:56 am

Looks like a great day, and some great flying.

When ever someone posts about a great flying day I remember a very old PC game I use to play on my 386 called Chuck Yeager's Air Combat. It would open up with a 8-bit sample of Chuck Yeager saying ""It's a great day for flying".

jim · Post by **jim** » Tue Oct 19, 2010 11:23 am

that looked great
insparational to a newbie brilliant sound effects too:) wee weeee

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Tue Oct 19, 2010 1:40 pm

That's my boy, also a James!

He is nearly two and a half now, unsuprisingly one of his first words was "bareplane" which is pretty close to the real thing......

He LOVES watching them, I've high hopes that he'll become an engineer like his dad.

The thing is that the flights on the videos are achieved following those basics that I talked about, nothing fancy. One thing that suprises some is the amount of downthrust than can be required, I hope that this picture gives you some idea.....

jim · Post by **jim** » Wed Oct 20, 2010 10:10 am

wow i can see the downthrust you put on how dose this affect the prop wire i imagine on that angle it's allmose toching the top of the fusalage
dose this affect how smoth the motor runs dosnt the motor try and pull the prop back levle i cant figure that bit out

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Wed Oct 20, 2010 11:06 am

I think that the prop wire is close, but because the shims have pushed the whole thing out slightly it misses ok.

On this one the rear peg is already fairly high and is pretty well much now in line with the prop shaft with the downthrust I've added, which is pretty spooky......

I've found this is often the case (not always though), I suspect that the original designers know that downthrust is always going to be required and do this on purpose?

Because the nosebearing is a nice snug fit it doesn't pull anything out of line and the motor runs nice and smooth......

jim · Post by **jim** » Thu Oct 21, 2010 10:36 am

i see:) thanks phugoid

Yentis · Post by **Yentis** » Thu Oct 21, 2010 2:36 pm

phugoid ... I just started {about 1 week into it} my first build ever! Its the Piper Super Cub. Your information has been a HUGE help! The picture are great & your explainations are very easy to understand. I am getting close to start sanding & sealing.. Do I use the 50% to 50% Elmers glue & water to seal the outer parts? Also, when applying tissue can I use ordinary glue stick to apply tissue to plane? Thanks for all your help!!

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Fri Oct 22, 2010 2:07 am

I think yes to both your questions, but it's not the method I use. I use sanding sealer to seal the wood (this is cellulose dope with fine powder in) and white glue watered down for the tissue. I have seen and heard modellers use the method you are suggesting with great success, it's just a matter of preference and what you find easiest.

If you can't get sanding sealer then full strength dope will do fine.

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 5:58 pm

Squishy,

Drop your warbirds and bonkers plans for a while and buy this kit. Ok it's not flashy or as glamorous as a 2nd world war fighter but with the contents of the kit and a bit of decent rubber it will almost certainly fly if you build it straight....

It's a common mistake (and one I made as a 14 year old lad) to go for the fancy low wing fighter, with the obvious result that I have something difficult to trim and fly, when in reality this little high winger with good tail moment, wing and stab area, is more likely to fly for you...........

Still snowing near Canada?

Squishyp38 · Post by **Squishyp38** » Thu Mar 10, 2011 9:06 pm

Hello, Phugoid. I WILL take you up on your advice. thanks! I will tell you WHEN I get this kit.

StefanJ · Post by **StefanJ** » Fri Mar 11, 2011 12:54 am

Oh, man, I wish I'd seen this thread earlier.

I'm completing the fuselage frame of a Cessna 180, which is very similar is design to the Cub. I missed out on the frame-building advice, but I'll be able to take advantage of the great tissue-ing tips.

I'm really disappointed in the "monochrome" tissue that the Guillow's kits come with. The colored tissue I've seen used on this Cub build, and a Cessna 180 build in another thread, look so cheery and bright.

I'll probably use the bland dark-and-light tissue for the Cessna, since it will be a learning exercise, but get some of that pretty colored stuff for the Arrow that's next on my list.

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Fri Mar 11, 2011 8:27 am

check out easybuiltmodels.com

its got some great tissues to choose from.

dare design and engineering has esaki if you want that instead

Phugoid · Post by **Phugoid** » Sat Mar 12, 2011 2:47 pm

For those in the UK/Europe, Esaki tissue (and much more) can be bought from SAMS and Mike Woodhouse:

http://www.samsmodels.com

http://www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk