Painting with Liquitex

[H.Dale]

I have built three Guillows model and have covered them and put two coats of clear Midwest Aero Gloss Clear on each. I was going to use Liquitex Acrylique on them. Before I painted them I experimented on a rudder I built to test it out. I thinned it about 50-50 and painted on several coats with a brush but when it dried it looked like I painted streaky clouds on it. I have a feeling it is not compatible with the dope. I was wondering if I put a coat of primer on the dope before I paint or use an airbrush with light coats would that work?

Any advice would be appreciated.

[davidchoate]

I have not had any trouble using Acrylic paints on Doped tissued surfaces. Try an Acrylic Underlay, or primer first on another test piece. Thats what I would do.

[NcGunny]

I have seen this happen before twice. Once with a green and once with a red paint. If I remember correctly..once the paint dried I did respray and it wouldnt cover it. The only thing I can compare this to is a small wall shelf unit I had bought that was handmade. It had been oil stained and I resanded the whole thing and sprayed it with acrylic paint. Several places it streaked where maybe the oil stain had went in deeper.
Anywho... the tissue problem looked the same way where the cloudy spots appear. It might be something on the tissue itself..idk. Now I use a matte sealer and havent had a problem since.

[kittyfritters]

I use Krylon, #1305, fixative instead of dope on my tissue. The Krylon is an acrylic so there are no compatibility problems with acrylic paints. The paints have quite a load of water in them so the tissue does sag after being airbrushed with acrylic paints but returns to its original tightness when dry. The comet P-40in the photo was Kryloned and then airbrushed with acrylic paints.