frame sticking to pattern

steve · Post by **steve** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 8:55 am

This is the first time for me doing one of these models. My question is, is there a way to stop the frame from sticking to the paper pattern?I am using cyanoacrylate glue that seems to wick into the paper and bond the pattern to the wood making it somewhat difficult to remove from the work surface. Hope this doen't sound foolish.

Paul Falconer · Post by **Paul Falconer** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 9:14 am

The easy answer is: Always use a sheet of waxed paper over the plans when assembling the parts. This will prevent the frame from adhering to the plans; the waxed paper is practically transparent.

Dick · Post by **Dick** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 9:23 am

Doesn't CA stick to waxed paper also????

I don't like CA for wood models. It just doesn't hold the porous ends of wood very well. I've used for ship models - it works OK on some surfaces but not porous end cuts. I also don't like getting my fingers stuck together that often!!!!

I use good old Testor's model cement in the green tube. You can smear it around if you need to, it dries pretty fast, and holds fine. And yes, you need to use waxed paper over the plans. I also use it as a gap filler around wing, rudder and stabilizer joins (after tissuing and assembling) to the fuselage.

P-51 · Post by **P-51** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 9:43 am

Dick wrote:Doesn't CA stick to waxed paper also????

I don't like CA for wood models. It just doesn't hold the porous ends of wood very well. I've used for ship models - it works OK on some surfaces but not porous end cuts. I also don't like getting my fingers stuck together that often!!!!

Yes CA will stick to waxed paper if you let sit look enough. I never use CA with glue will not stick will only time I use it is for plastic models photo etech. I dont care to get my fingers stick to.

Paul Falconer · Post by **Paul Falconer** » Sun Oct 02, 2005 10:16 am

Sorry guys, I have to disagree. CA will stick to waxed paper a bit, but can easily be detached. But when it sticks to your plans, you have to destroy them to get it unhooked. This is bad if you want to keep the plans or use what is printed on the reverse side. Also, there is no substitute for a glue which will bond in a matter of seconds, especially when assembling small parts. White glue is okay for papering but the oldtime model cement can't hold a candle to CA, in my humble opinion.[/i]

riasyn · Post by **riasyn** » Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:17 pm

I always use clear plastic wrap, like saran wrap. You can see through easily and doesn't stick to the wood. But I always use just plain old Elmers glue for frame assy. I have built 6 or so kits like this and never had a problem.

Bulldog · Post by **Bulldog** » Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:56 am

In regard to the CA cement debate, The green labled products which are a
bit thicker in texture than the very "runny" ones are easier to control, and
thus less likely to cause the problem. Nostalgia time. At one time it was
suggested on both Comet and Cleveland plans that the the plans be
"soaped" before construction began, literally rubbing the surface of the
plan with bar soap to resist the glue, know what?- it worked!

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Sun Oct 22, 2006 11:03 pm

Wax paper is what I use. Its cheap and works well. But for those stubborn glue sticking pieces, I use a piece of thin wire to "roll" under the part in between it and the wax paper. Peels it right of the paper with no damage to the part or the waxpaper!

avery · Post by **avery** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 4:25 pm

I use clear plastic wrap. It's clear and I dont have problems

DELETED · Post by **DELETED** » Tue Nov 07, 2006 6:10 pm

DELETED

The Flying Panda · Post by **The Flying Panda** » Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:29 pm

Sometimes I have had the ca ZAP A GAP go through the pin holes under the wax paper and glue the plans to the board. To solve this i have a layer of wax paper under the plans as well as over the plans and yes the glue does stick to the wax a little bit but can be removed easily enaugh i dont let it sit long enaugh to stick to much.

Hope this helps and have a supreme Christmas

The Fly'n Panda

flyright · Post by **flyright** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 8:11 am

I have had the same problem with CA leaching throught the pin holes.
I purchased a steel building board and magnets from easy built models, but still occassionally use the good old balsa wood board from Guillows

lukebozek1 · Post by **lukebozek1** » Wed Dec 22, 2010 9:16 am

I use the wax paper over the plans, but in honesty CA will stick to air. Before you lift the part off the plans, run a dowel between the part and the wax paper to pop the contact points. You get 98% of the wax paper removed. The thinner CA stick worse than the thicker stuff, but the plans are saved. Be careful to pin parts down away from jopints or teh CA will flow through the pinhole to the plan.

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