Trouble glueing plastic parts, help please.

[skyjet]

Hi, just finishing building a 900 series Chipmunk but i am now having trouble making the nose cone and canopy stick, i have tried balsa cement, white glue and Gorilla glue, nothing works on either bare balsa or tissue covered.

Any help please. Skyjet [/b]

[Phugoid]

I use a two part epoxy, the clear stuff that comes in two different coloured tubes. This works very well, I also use it for securing U/C wires....

[skyjet]

Hi, thank you for your quick replies, i will have a go with your ideas.
The instructions with the Chipmunk kit just say cement the nose cone and canopy, also there is no info on a c of g point or flying trim tips yet the Skyraider kit i have not started yet does which is a bit strange.

Thanks again Skyjet

[cliffm]

I think you'll find that taking the sheen off the surfaces you apply the glue too will greatly affect the strength of your bond if you are not doing this already. Nothing severe, just a light abrasion with fine sandpaper will do.

[scigs30]

For the Canopy.......Use canopy glue, works great.
Plastic parts.......Most plastic parts use plastic cement. If you are going to glue the plastic to balsa, smear plastic cement on the balsa first, then let it dry. Then apply more cement and attach the plastic piece. For the Cowl and only the cowl, I use Thick CA glue.

[skyjet]

Hi,thank you all for you advice an replies you have saved me a great deal of trial and error, all i have got to do now is make it fly which i am sure could be another story .

Thanks again Skyjet

[The Flying Panda]

hey fellow aircraft builders,
i see that every one uses differnt glues or cements
i like to use super glue gell heres the trick though if it doesnt stick give it a kick- zap kicker. i use zap glue on my wooden frames i have noticed only one problem with zap and that is it doesnt stick to card stock however the elmers white glue does with some time involved. the zap kicker works well with the super glue gell. beware of the zap, use glasses if u have vission difficulties cause i end up gettn my face too close tryn to see and my eyelids get stuck to me eyeballs due to fumigation and zap dries fast.
Hope this helps someone and have a happy holidays every one.
The Flyn Panda

[lukebozek1]

Testor's plastic cement works plastic to balsa. Don't pour it on because on some of the plastics it will melt through or cause the plastic to soften. Let it dry overnight before working the part.

[rayd]

A few tips...maybe, as options to add onto list by other members here.

-When using glues for plastic to wood,

a) Be careful with glue selection...some will (may??) slowly melt, distort, cloud/discolor plastic. Perhaps wise to test a sample plastic area first if possible, then check next day for unwanted changes. Watch out for Duco Cement. Test first. Some types glues by Testors are approved for such materials and may be ok, but use sparingly. Make sure parts to be joined are clean, not greasy. Am not familiar with holding power of less toxic glues of today (am learning thanks to this forum) but do look at other members posts...nevertheless, good you try some testing first. Epoxy gave mixed results in past, but discolored some. Worse case scenario, part will get messed up or ruined. BUT, the smarts are with you, so, you can fashion replacement parts using balsa, celluloid, or other materials. We're a resourceful bunch, don't sweat the little stuff.

b) Plastic (different kinds also) might not stick well onto balsa ....long ago, at least for U Control, we "pre-glued just about everything balsa or hardwoods. Yes, it added weight and took more time. (Pre gluing is putting one or more thin coats of glue on the balsa to close up the pores, it worked better than dope, less odor, easier/faster and the joined parts became somewhat non porous, effectively. Worked well, then at least with eg Ambroid type glue or Testors. (But expect to peel dried glue off of fingers most of day.) They did not have much non toxics back then, but if I had lots of difficulty, might try some clear thin double stick tape as near last resort. Can be a sticky mess. If all else fails though, there's always duct tape.

[slopemeno]

Try Goop or E-6000. I use it in my slopers for things like gluing in servos, etc. It stays flexible for decades- in fact a friend of mine lost a sloper out on a cliff in Marin County, and we finally found it four years later- but the E-6000 was still flexible, even after being face-up in UV.

[WIDDOG]

I put lite coat of Carpenters Glue on the Balsa Wood. Than I put a lite coat of Plastic Model Glue on the plastic part. I than put the parts together