Kit 701 LC Fairchild 24 Build / RC Conversion

[PsyberPhlier]

Hey guys,

Here is a link to my build log --> http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2312566

If no one minds, I thought I would shadow it here as it is a Guillows kit... Ok?

Ted

[Wildpig]

Have at it. The Fairchild 24 is a really nice kit. R/C conversion threads are fairly popular on this forum.

[PsyberPhlier]

Thanks Wildpig.

The Fairchild 24 in a nice plane. The kit however... let's just say it could use a little work.

Today's installment was to get the main fuselage assembly together. Nothing forward of B7 is installed while waiting for the power plant to arrive.

With just a little work, Guillows could have made this process so much easier.

Ted

[davidchoate]

One of the reasons I convert these things is it is Not easy. If I wanted that I'd just get a Grat Planes kit or whatever, but personally, I enjoy the challenge. Even to get one of these to fly at all is an achievment. I got the Fairchild kit, but have'nt done any more than check out the plan. It does not resemle the usual "Guillios Style". I think it would fly very well on a Rubber motor honestly. Very light for a scale model of Guillows design.

[PsyberPhlier]

That's pretty much the same reason I tackled this project, David. I like the challenge and I am working my way down to the 16.5 inch warbirds.

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

Konrad, a builder over on rcgroups, has some good changes to the Fairchild at former B7 and B8 that keep the longerons from collapsing the support and the front of the cockpit. Additionally, there are window supports and an improved B14.

Fairchild 243.jpg

This is the work of KONRAD. I take no credit and post it only as reference.

Ted

[davidchoate]

T
Like I said. Have yet to build the Fairchild,but most of these things are tailheavy as they are scale models,and are dimensioned for a heavy engine, and gas tank. I have done reinforcing of the nose, and still had to add a larger than necessary battery to achieve balance. I have seen Konrad's work on that forum. He has very good ideas that work.

[davidchoate]

I have made several unsuccessful attempts at creating a truly flyable 500 series warbird.RC I mean.I had intended to repurpose all the stiff from a 16.5" Hobby Zone spitfire 4 channel with the AS3X stbilization system. You can get one BNF for about $60 if you shop around. I nicked the curcuit board when cutting it out of the foam, and just have'nt had the time to try and fix it, but I think it would've been My best chance at success. I don't even remember many, if any one doing one that didn't require a master piloting skill to fly it around.

[PsyberPhlier]

LOL and I am so far from that 'expert pilot' it's like comparing a cow to a kangaroo...

[davidchoate]

I'm not much better. Monday I learned how to do loops, but have not quite got the hang of pulling out of them. At one point I think I did 3 or 4 before I started nearing a tree, and so I just Ruddered it over and luckily was high enough to recover.. And that was with the slowest, floating,and easiest to fly Plane they make. Whats with the Kangaroo analogy? Are you in Australia. I dont quite get it. Do they taste way better than a cow? or the other way around?

[PsyberPhlier]

LOL, Just a comparison about my skills or lack thereof David.

Yesterdays work was limited as there was a little celebrating to do...

I did not follow KONRADs changes, rather, I made my own. It was a weight thing.
I replaced braces 7 and 8 with 1/8 by 1/16 inch balsa instead of the plan 1/16 inch square stock. I also moved 8 down from the green line to the center of the longeron at the bottom of the side window area, red line.7 will need minor sanding to reach the leading edge profile.

Additionally, I glued in parts A6 which make up the back windows in the cockpit.

NOTE TO ANY FUTURE BUILDER - GLUE A6 to its plan location behind and below A3 before doing any other construction! If you build the fuse to the plan lines, it will not fit correctly when assembled later...

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

HAPPY NEW YEAR, ALL!

The efforts for today were spent finishing the fuselage as far as I could while waiting on parts in the mail.

All the top stringers are in, as well as the single side stringer.

I bent the nose section around and installed formers B1 through B6. WOW, is that bend in the nose severe or what...

The landing gear is part way installed. I need to wrap a little thread to be done here.

I guess its off to build the tail while I wait...

Ted

[davidchoate]

Looks good. Thanx for the tip. I will make a note for mine. It is a fairly newer laser kit, and have not seen a lot of build threads. Maybe one or two. And if youre not painting, but usung colored tissue for lightness; I just had a minor problem ( as I have not assembled but one or two laser kits) that I should have sanded off the dark burn on the formers etc... more. It caused Me to need an xtra coat of paint ( the yellow is very light and translucent to hide it.

[PsyberPhlier]

Indeed David, sanding off the brown is mighty important when not painting.

I do plan to tissue cover in white, dope and then a final airbrushing. Mostly I have to paint because tissue does not come in the color of the analog plane I am attempting to copy.

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

Its kind of a lazy day around here today, so not doing much.

I did build up the rudder, see pic.

To replicate my work, glue up the perimeter of the rudder as shown on the plan except do not glue C5 to the spar 1. When the glue dries, cut C1 at the leading edge of the spar to create the rudder. Next, glue a similar spar between C1 and C5 as shown, to create a vertical stab.

I filled in the bottom of the rudder with scrap sheet balsa to form a strong point to attach a micro control horn.

NOTE - I used the wider spar material for all internal parts, including the spars. Total weight for both pieces, 1 lowly little gram.

Ted