Kit #902 O-1E Bird Dog Build / RC Conversion

[PsyberPhlier]

Just for fun and to fill the time waiting on my Curtiss Robin to show up, I thought I would hammer out the Bird Dog. It has always been one of my favorites and I had it laying around the dark side of the work bench.

I spent just a few minutes and got all of the die crap (only broke 3 pieces) wood punched out. It's a start...

Start.jpg

Going this small is way outta my league so I will have plenty of question regarding flight electronics.

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

I used a little time before work this morning to layout the motor and firewall. The motor pictured is a Turnigy 1811 2900kv 10g.

For the firewall, I simply copied former B and replicated it in 1/16 balsa without the ears on top and bottom. I then saturated it with thin CA on both sides to stiffen it up a bit. I did purposely cut it too tall so I can sand to an exact match between former A and former B later.

I drew the firewall location on a plan copy showing 1deg down and I will add 1deg right thrust when I install it.

Ted

Fire Wall + Motor.jpg

Fire Wall.jpg

Fire Wall 1.jpg

[PsyberPhlier]

I spent dinnertime notching and bracing the formers.

Epiphany - I dislike cutting notches.

Ted

[dirk gently]

I disliked that too, when I used to do it with a knife. So i made a notch-cutter. I took a piece of the hardest 2mm balsa I could find, and using double-sided tape I secured a thin slice of medium-grain sandpaper to the edge (with the small Guillows you would have to use 1.5mm balsa). Now I just sand the notches out, easy and precise.

[PsyberPhlier]

I managed to get the tailfeathers assembled and sanded tonight. Its not much, I know, but I am trying to kill time waiting on a few things to show up in the mail.

Ted

FuselageB.jpg

[PsyberPhlier]

I disliked that too, when I used to do it with a knife. So i made a notch-cutter. I took a piece of the hardest 2mm balsa I could find, and using double-sided tape I secured a thin slice of medium-grain sandpaper to the edge (with the small Guillows you would have to use 1.5mm balsa). Now I just sand the notches out, easy and precise.

Thanks for the tip. I will use it.

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

This morning I wanted to try my hand at laying out and eventually printing my own tissue to cover this little bird with.

I started by scanning the appropriate area of the plans and importing into inkscape. Next I traced the necessary lines and started filling in the correct text/art in a position as close to the prototype bird as possible.

I then printed out and made a test fit with plain paper. After I was happy with that, I removed the lines and made the entire page an OD Green a Marine would be proud of.

I did print the white lettering with just a tiny grey hue to it.

I attached the test fit image for reference. I can email the full size print ready image should anyone want to use it (too large for this site).

Ted

[WIDDOG]

Very interesting... I'm working on a rubber powered version of the Bird Dog. I'm learning to fly RC with Foamie's. Since I don't know much about RC I don't get to post very much on RC conversion posts very much. I do follow this post closely please keep up the good work.

[PsyberPhlier]

WOW, I AM GLAD I LOOKED AT THE PICTURES...

LOL I did the previous layout with a Turnigy 1811 10g motor but the motor for the plane is a smaller 5g. I was looking at my own post here and discovered my error. Fortunately, before anything was glued up.

Today I managed to get the RIGHT motor and firewall roughed in. A little soldering and I can glue it in the fuse permanently.

Motor - hexTronik 5g (14mm, 5gm)

Ted

[PsyberPhlier]

Here is a current pic of my work so far. Everything has been painted OD green where tissue will come in contact or can be seen.

Ted

[Bill Gaylord]

Looks good.
I used that 5gm motor on my Guillows Rumpler on 2 cells. The only issue I had with it, was that the bell was loose on the shaft. I had to remove the bell, carefully crimp the bell shaft bushing just a hair, and repress it over the shaft. The motor worked well, but to get the light weight benefit of it, I had to mount the gear as far forward as possible to avoid any ballast, which would have offset the weight benefit. It was another one of those highly crammed jobs with limited nose room like the Robin.

[PsyberPhlier]

The bell seemed to be fairly snug when I stripped it all down and reassembled Bill.

Yea, snug fit in the Curtiss lol. Thats what we are calling it now... huh? I used several other adjectives that I cannot post here.

Still, the CR is spacious compared to the L-19.

Ted

[davidchoate]

Nice. That motor looks plenty powerful.

[David Lewis]

Using 1/16" x 3/32" balsa along the hinge lines might work but it's cutting it a little close in my experience. You might get some bowing in when the covering shrinks, depending on wood density.

[PsyberPhlier]

Nice. That motor looks plenty powerful.

Thanks David. Never built this small when I started this kit... challenging.

Ted