What is a good substitute for dope?

[Piper]

Hi all, my local hobby stores don't sell dope or thinner so was wondering what a good substitute is, i've heard that half white glue and half water works, is that true? any suggestions are welcome. P.S. sorry about not replying to the Cox engines my internet is really slow and the website doesn't come up sometimes.
Piper

[Wildpig]

I'll give my answer just because I happen to be reading the forum, not because I'm knowledgeable on the subject. The 50/50 glue/water mixture is used by many. On another forum I read about using Future Floor Polish. There might be something on this forum about it. I have heard there are special concerns with using floor polish.
Me personally, I glue the tissue to the frames with stick glue, shrink tissue with water, and then spray with Krylon clear acrylic.
Arlo, just finished his 900 Series Chipmunk and has a very nice covering job. Check his posts to see what he used. I don't think it was dope.

[Wildpig]

Try this link: http://tinyurl.com/7f8wrct
Goose built a sharp looking Piper Cub and posted it last month. Finished with floor polish.

[goose]

Thanks Wild-pig.

On the Piper Cub I used 50-50 white glue and water for the tissue attach. Shrunk with water, and then used thinned Future Floor Polish. It worked pretty well, but the decals still puckered the tissue.

Do a search in this forum for covering methods, there are lots of different ways.

[kittyfritters]

Waterslide decals are a problem with Krylon fixative or the acrylic floor finishes. These finishes are water-resistant, not waterproof. Dope is waterproof. This is not a problem for me since I scan the decal sheets and print my own "tissuecals" to be applied with glue stick.

[Piper]

Thanks for the replies,does the dope or substitute go on the wood or the tissue? i've heard you brush the dope on the tissue and you brush it on the wood,do you still need to water shrink it if you have put the dope or sub on the tissue? and for the glue is there a special type or brand that works best?
Piper

[StefanJ]

In the olden days, dope was used as both a tissue adhesive (on the frames) and a sealer (on the tissue).

Thinned down white glue can be used for both.

Or: Use a UHU purple glue stick to attach the tissue, and either Future or thinned white glue for the sealing.

You still need to mist the tissue before sealing it.

There is a discussion thread about which glues to use. Elmer's recently reformulated its classic Glue-All. I forget the outcome.

[rayd]

Gotta tell ya, I do miss the old days and the supplies we used back then....but, we have what's available today and just have to make the best of it. Seems like lots of modellers have still been successful. Kudos to the help provided by the good members of this forum, and to Guillows for sponsoring it.

[SteveM]

If you want to use something other than dope because of its cost or smell that is one thing, but availability is not a problem. If your local hobby shop doesn't carry SIG or Midwest then they're probably not going to have anything else you need so it is time to get used to the idea that you will need to mail/internet order many of your supplies. If they do carry some SIG or Midwest products but not what you need then step up to the counter and ask them to order it and I bet you'll find them delighted to help you out.

PVHC
Hobbylinc
A2Z
SIG
Tower Hobbies

I could add a lot more, but those are places I have purchased from before and can recommend.

Now if you use a lot of dope then you could go this route: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/menus/cs/ ... dopes.html

[liale]

Ok, I'm an old "oldtimer" but have never had a problem using the 50/50 water/white glue mixture as my "dope". I apply at least 2 coats on the frame and then on the tissue (dry) when applying. At least 2 coats on tissue after it has dried from application. I use an old hairdryer (500 watts) to dry each application. I have always used enamel paint; from cheap spray paint to Testers bottles brushed and air brushed.

[backyardbalsapilot]

Rustoleum clear sealant works better than krylon, in my experience. The rustoleum makes the tissue more transparent than krylon.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-P ... lsrc=aw.ds

This stuff, but not in such a large amount.

[Mitch]

Recently (in the past year) I found LusterKote by Top Flite It comes in a large rattle can and costs about 8 dollars. I think enough spay to cover 3 models with 2 coats each. I really like it. My last model I painted after I sealed with the LusterKote. That was the FW I built "Red 13"

I use Crystal Clear, It also comes in Aluminum and I have not tried that yet. I bought a can and plan to use that on my next Mustang. That will save the extra coat of paint.

Mitch

[CedarBranchFisher]

liale, you say two coats on the frame, do you brush on the 50/50,let it dry then another coat? And for the tissue, use a good soft bristle brush and put on two coats. I'm dong a P-51, should I spray a clear-coat of paint and then paint it aluminum? You seem knowledgeable so thought maybe you could help. Thanks.

[scigs30]

If I don't want to use regular dope, I go with Eze Dope. It is a bit finicky but when it works it works great.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthr ... ued)/page8

[flying t]

from a professional point of view,years ago at work a problem developed with rust..clear seal.. nothing stuck to it, rust... has a base of fishoil,they had a age problem and their solve was to add more oil, I use poly urethane spray