Sharing A BAD Idea

Ask other modelers for a little help / knowledge ?
Xanadu
Posts: 497
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:48 pm
Location: Anola, MB, Canada

Post by Xanadu »

I figured out how to make a simple doubled side notcher, but still have yet to figure out making a three way one so I can "punch out" a square notch with one push.

The double sided one, I took a popsicle stick and epoxied onto each side, both at the same end, a snapped off piece of razor blade. This way it has a blade on each side, making for a dual cut at once. Looks like a stick sandwiched between 2 blades. Just snapped the blades to the width of the stick.

But you still need to make a side cut to finish the notch.

Now if I can only make a three sided one!
I plan on trying to epoxy a small section of blade in between the two others, but thats a pretty small space to wok with.

The idea would be, one push, cuts a nice notch right out, where you want, and the size you need, nice and square.
Xanadu
Posts: 497
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:48 pm
Location: Anola, MB, Canada

Post by Xanadu »

BTW...........I got the starting idea from this article, and just refined it for what I wanted.

http://www.smallflyingarts.com/Current_ ... t_fuse.htm
John G. Jedinak
Posts: 160
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana

Post by John G. Jedinak »

Xanadu...another great idea and super resource......Thax, JGJ
Xanadu
Posts: 497
Joined: Wed Sep 27, 2006 9:48 pm
Location: Anola, MB, Canada

Post by Xanadu »

Heres another site with tips on cutting out parts.

http://www.easybuiltmodels.com/gen.htm
scigs30
Posts: 845
Joined: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:31 am

Post by scigs30 »

The sanding sticks and Avery label paper work real well for me. If the kit is a Guillows and comes die cut, then you really don't need the Avery paper. Just a little note, I only order my kits via Guillows direct. This way they have better quality wood and better die cut pieces. I am working on a P40 right now and half the wood is great quality and the other is all right but a little heavy. The die cut is real good, no crushed pieces. I was able to sand, the back and most pieces fell right out. I placed them on the parts sheet of the instructions and marked my notch locations. Then I used my Twigs sanding stick. I built my fuselage and all the stringers come out straight just like the plans. I will post pictures. By the way I have a hard time with virtual dome. Does any one oppose me posting my pictures directly on this forum? Thanks David
cdwheatley
Posts: 92
Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2006 1:03 pm
Location: Waterlooville, Hampshire, England

Post by cdwheatley »

What difficulties are you having with the Virtual Aerodrome David? I have no objections as such if you're finding it too much of a problem posting your pictures there, provided that they are all of Guillow's kits though - this is Guillow's own forum after all! :D
tony
Posts: 6
Joined: Wed May 23, 2007 4:17 pm
Location: Kingswinford, England

Post by tony »

I've been experementing cutting notches using emery boards (can be found for free in Wive's or Daughter's beauty kits - they use them on their finger nails - or purchased for about 10p (15c) in your local beauty shop/pharmacist).

I've been having very good results with hardly any breakoffs

Tony
John G. Jedinak
Posts: 160
Joined: Mon Dec 19, 2005 6:50 pm
Location: Fort Wayne, Indiana

Post by John G. Jedinak »

Tony..........been using emery boards elsewhere.....never occurred to me to try notching. Good idea. I'll give it a try. Thanx, JGJ
reblacklaf
Posts: 3
Joined: Thu May 01, 2008 6:34 pm
Location: Rensselaer, IN
Contact:

Sorry for posting to old post

Post by reblacklaf »

My Grandfather taught me to cut out the notches prior to removing the former or ribs from the sheet. This way prevented most splitting and cracking when removing the material. Later he showed me how to make a sanding tool to sand the notches. Sanding allows you to more evenly line stringers up so you have less stress on the fuselage. The final way was to cut the formers smaller [used the depth of the stringers to mark how much smaller to make the former]. You then mark were the stringers go on the formers. Using this method you don't have to scallop the formers to prevent the starved horse look after applying your tissue.

Randy
I'm not in the Obits YET!
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