Dope Vs Krylon

daforuiner · Post by **daforuiner** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 7:40 am

I am new at all this and going to build my first model. I am builing it
as a static model and was wondering if using dope or Krylon would be
easier and/or better.
Thank you

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 11:34 am

Since it's static, its really a matter of preference. Either will work. Dope has a strong odor. I think it has a better look to it. Krylon is simple and easy to apply, plus inexpensive. Dope can be costly. Seems most folks on this forum use acrylic paints.

Arlo DiPasquale · Post by **Arlo DiPasquale** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 3:07 pm

I usually use acrylic, though I have tried krylon once. I prefer to use acrylic though. Liquitex works great and is a reasonable price.

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 4:48 pm

If forced to choose between dope and Krylon then I would chose Krylon.

But for static displays you just cannot beat acrylic paints like an artist would use. Check out this post by David Duckett where he explains how he does it with Liquitex, which is how I paint all of my static models.

John G. Jedinak · Post by **John G. Jedinak** » Thu Sep 18, 2008 5:25 pm

Acrylic is THE way to go. Best of all it is water clean-up. Ducketts posting made me a believer. Also, using Elmers white glue full strength for gluing is great and then mixing it 50/50 with water works great as THE replacement for dope when sealing both the balsa and the tissue.......Luck JGJ

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:29 am

I just bought 8 ounces each of dope and thinner. SIG brand. 10.00 each. I'v never used the stuff but I'm fairly certain that I can do MANY planes with what I bought which brings the cost per plane down. I hope the stuff doesnt go "stale" before I use it all. Until now, spray cans have worked just fine.
I have not heard of Liquitex and would like to know more, please.

thymekiller

Whats the best way to post pics?

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Fri Sep 19, 2008 8:41 am

Will read David Ducketts post on paint. Looks to be a fine articule. Going to have to look into a local art store.

thymekiller

daforuiner · Post by **daforuiner** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:11 am

If I am using a glue stick for the tissue (and what glue stick should I use), do I still have to use krylon to seal the balsa before I use the glue stick?
As I said I am new at this.
Thank you

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:45 am

daforuiner wrote:If I am using a glue stick for the tissue (and what glue stick should I use), do I still have to use krylon to seal the balsa before I use the glue stick?
As I said I am new at this.
Thank you

I have read that the purple stick from UHU is the best so that is what I used when I attached the tissue with a glue stick. If you can not find the purple UHU stick at your local office supply or craft type store then you can order them from Easy Built.

There is no need to seal the wood with anything before applying the glue and attaching the tissue. To me this is an advantage when trying to built a flying plane as every gram counts. Also, check out this tissue tutorial

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:22 pm

I used the purple glue stick on a Rufe, never again.......

Was not happy with how it was and the results.
Stick with dope or 50/50 white glue and water.

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 9:40 pm

Xanadu wrote:I used the purple glue stick on a Rufe, never again.......

Was not happy with how it was and the results.
Stick with dope or 50/50 white glue and water.

My experience was the exact opposite, so try several methods.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 10:30 pm

I used elmers glue stick and it worked out fine for me. Different people get different results, of course. My only complaint was, if you dont seal AFTER you glue stick, you run the risk of tissue getting loose if it gets wet. [ damp grass ] The good news is, if you dont like it, or need to repair, it pretty much washes right off.
After the glue has stuck, wet you finger and run it along the edges to work it in and smooth out the edges. When you finish, give it plenty of time to dry, then LIGHTLY mist the tissue to shrink.
One other thing. Glue sticks have a shelf life. If a stick doesent seem to be any good, it might be old. It should be like chapstick going on.
Again, different folks get different results. Good luck.

thymekiller

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Fri Oct 03, 2008 11:19 pm

When I came back to modeling, after more than a thirty year lapse, I found modelers talking about applying tissue with glue stick, shrinking with alcohol, and sealing with Krylon. Since my wife has severe allergies to the dope fumes, I decided to try these techniques and have been very satisfied. I have even been successful covering wet, both with japanese tissue and silkspan using the Uhu purple glue stick.

I still seal the framework with a sanding sealer made of talcum powder suspeneded in 50/50 nitrate dope and thinner before applying wet covering. Whn applying dry covering I pin wings and tail surfaces down for drying when shrinking. Alcohol does not use all the shrink in the tissue, so if there are any small wrinkles left afer shrinking you can apply water to the offending area to get it tighter.

I have discovered that the glossy Krylon acrylic fixative (#1305 if I remember correctly) works better than the flat, even if you are going to airbrush the model with flat acrylic paint or ink. The latex based Krylon clear, 7000 series is absolutely useless in this application.

Different people have had differing results using these materials, and your mileage may vary so, the only approach is to experiment.

Keep Them Flying!

Howard

Guillow's Model Builders Forum

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