300 series

FLYBOYZ · Post by **FLYBOYZ** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 12:14 am

This guide was made in1993 by Paul K Guillows.IT shows a example.It says by modifiing your motor shaftto have a hook,you can use a loop' OF rubber to connect your motor to th propeller.This provides a shock absorbing mount and allows for simple thrust adjustment in the nose bearing. Thats it!I belive as I look at it more they saying hook a rubber between a electric motor and the porp reducing troque.The motor is mounted back in the fuse.Think this way you can use the prop giving to you in the kit they got many set ups they where using D and C size batterys
Found more on the other page.It says This system allows you to build conventional rubber power nose block with simple trust adjustments. allowing the battery and motor mounted closer to the C.G. the system can be converted from rubber to electric and back with in minutes.Cool!

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:45 am

Now I think I see what you are talking about. I have never read anything like that. I have often wondered about putting the motor in the middle.{ or close}

Where did you get the book. That is very interesting. !!!

thymekiller

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 8:48 am

You can get much lighter batteries almost everywhere.

thymekiller

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 10:59 am

FLYBOYZ wrote:Thinking about building a slided bar in the fuse to relase tentsion slowly!It will move back as the front rubber band releases.The bar will have small rubber bands that go to the tail.These rubbers will not be allow to twist with the main allowing the main to release at a slower rate keeping trust to the porp to a minium.Just a idear!Then again thiner rubber bands may be better!

You might want to look at a Gizmo Geezer front end assembly. This is an adjustable nose button and prop with a spring loaded freewheel, and a screw clutch on the back. When the motor is wound, the motor shaft is pulled back as far as it can go. As the motor unwinds the spring pulls the shaft forward until, when the motor is about to go slack, the clutch engages, stops the motor from unwinding and the prop freewheels. With this arrangement the rubber motor never goes slack in the fuselage and the center of gravity remains the same as under powered flight easing the transition from powered flight to glide and making trimming easier. See http://www.gizmogeezer.com/

FLYBOYZ · Post by **FLYBOYZ** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 5:45 pm

That is amazing stuff!I was reading the pamplet and it said tow 1/8 stands of rubber=6volt eltric motor in torque so I cut the rubber band they gave me in the kit down the middel and tryed one stand and took a little length out so it sagged in the fuse with out poping off the shaft.I think this is what Iwant its about a 10 second run at 150 turns. its not slow and its not so fast it has alot of torque.Been covering it today its raining out side.I do like that winder Iam going to see If I can get one.Thank you for the info.Very cool!

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Sat Feb 28, 2009 9:33 pm

A winder is a good idea. With some contest rubber , 400-500 turns is typical.

FLYBOYZ · Post by **FLYBOYZ** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 12:27 am

Iam going to do that later the instruction say to frist test the plane free launching it over a grassy area make trim adjustments then try 100 truns see how it flys under power then go to 150 truns. owe I can,t wait I want to try a few things

I seen a eltric winder at hobby lobby today it comes with a styrofome plane thinking about getting it and crash it to peices frist.but its been bad weather for now.Still only have one flight on my F6F Hellcat every time I get it and run out side the wind blows and the rain comes.

FLYBOYZ · Post by **FLYBOYZ** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:16 am

Well I made a bo bo on the windsheld.Iknow this has to be trail fitted and ready once set inplace, did all this and still got it off set.Nothing I could do but work it out.It truned out ok but a good eye can see what happen.It looks like it has a modified sliding plixey glass on the rear cabin for vientlation.I like it.The cabin is ready may mount the wings to day.Then again starting the day out like this may wait.

FLYBOYZ · Post by **FLYBOYZ** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:28 am

I put a 1/16 washout on the wing tips when I spray the wing down with warter to tighting the silk I put it on a flat surface and put a balsa stinger under the tip tne wieghted it down didn,t think it would bend left it over night it was pefect this morning.I want to set diehidal in the wing but the plans don,t show any and say its not nessary I stiil would like a little.There is no line up points or nothing for attaching the wing.This is very worriesome for me got to figure something out.

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 5:02 pm

FLYBOYZ wrote: test the plane free launching it over a grassy area make trim adjustments then try 100 truns see how it flys under power then go to 150 truns.:

Yes, thats the way to start. And obviously you can wind the 100 or so turns with your finger and use the kit rubber. But, once you get it trimmed, you can put some contest rubber in and really crank in the turns.

And by the way, just in case you didn't know.... you must lube the rubber motor.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:03 pm

I lube with armor-all.
I got one of those foam planes with the counter/ winder. Flys Good and the winder can work on any small plane. Really helps when you need to wind 700 turns. I got the bi-plane.

thymekiller

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 6:14 pm

FLYBOYZ wrote:There is no line up points or nothing for attaching the wing.This is very worriesome for me got to figure something out.

On the plans , the side that is the FULL SIZE SIDE VIEW, there is a photograph of the model. Looks like you use the stringer positions to line up the wing.
Also, on the side view drawing, just above the words: Point of Balance, there is some writing. Does that pertain to locating the wing position? I'm looking at your build pictures on VA.

FLYBOYZ · Post by **FLYBOYZ** » Sun Mar 01, 2009 11:20 pm

Thank you supercuriser.I did what you said it wroked perfect and my apollogies if I offended you.I know you know what you talking about.I not to good at these computers yet.I also set diehedral in the wing its a little more than I wanted.I used a 1/16 stock basla made a extra rib and glued it to the F 1 rib and tappered it to get my diehedral .But a little at the cabbin area means a lot at the wing tip.But I like it call it my butter fly.Thats the winder I was looking at tymekiller.Think I stop by and get one tomorrow with a new plane and paint for the 170 Iam thinking biplane but maybe not.I really like these cabin curisers they alot of fun.I like to build one and put a scale engine on it.

supercruiser · Post by **supercruiser** » Mon Mar 02, 2009 12:31 pm

Offended?? I was not offended by anything said. Maybe I just type grumpy??

If you like the cabin cruiser type airplanes. The Fairchild 24 is a nice flying model.

TJH · Post by **TJH** » Tue Mar 03, 2009 12:38 pm

Has anyone ever had any rubber-powered flying success with the low-wing planes in the 300 series? I am working on the Cherokee (used to fly the real thing when I could afford it

I have the wings (nice strong design!) and tail surfaces completed and am halfway on the fuselage. Don't know if I will just display or attempt to fly so I look forward to some feedback.
Thanks!