Non-toxic paint and glues

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 7:34 pm

I was wondering if anyone has had any experience in the use of indoor latex paint for finishing off their display models? As I am forced to sequester my building in the house I've been looking for something less toxic to the atmosphere of my indoors this winter than butyrate or some of the rates. I got a guy at the paint store to mix me a satin "neptune blue" that looks to be perfect for the corsair I'm getting ready to paint. I've had great results using "Elmer's" as a fabric glue and sealer over the frame that I used aliphatic resin which is also environmentaly friendly. No ugly odors and very good results as far as joint strength and dry time. A quart of the paint was about $7.50 so if it works out I should have plenty of paint for another Navy plane. I'll get back to you on my results. cliffm

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:09 pm

Lots of use just use dollar store variety acrylic paints. Cheap, water washable, and durable once dried.
There is 1000's of color, they mix well to make custom colors, and best of all........NO ODOR........

John G. Jedinak · Post by **John G. Jedinak** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 9:22 pm

Amen to Xanadu.....arcylics are perfect...zero ordor. I use Liquitex which is available at Craft stores. Comes in a tube and mix with a little water. Pricey per tube but, one small tube will last almost forever and a myriad of color choices. Suspect it would be quite heavy for a flyer though......Luck, JGJ

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Sun Mar 08, 2009 11:28 pm

I tryied latex indoor paint. It looks good, but it is VERY heavy.

thymekiller

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 8:51 am

One reason I mentioned the acrylics is that he asked about using it on display models, so I assumed weight for flying is not an issue.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:25 am

Thats true. Nice thing about house paint is you can have ANY shade or color you want and will finish anywhere between flat to high gloss. The stuff I used cleans up nicely with just water.

thymekiller

BillParker · Post by **BillParker** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:53 am

The paint is: Manor Hall Exterior Latex from the Monarch Paint Company, as suggested by the paint contractor here in our new subdivision. We mixed custom colors with Testors Model Enamels, then made paint chips and sent them down to Monarch, where they again mixed custom colors. Never used better paint.

Yes, this paint is heavy, but it can be thinned with water, and shot in an airbrush. With a little practice, you can do virtually any kind of paint job you want, especially in flats... On the big planes here, we just slap it on with brushes. Let the flat paints dry and they look sprayed.

(1000 series P-47 Thunderbolt, blown up to 96" wingspan...)

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Mon Mar 09, 2009 7:24 pm

Indeed a fine looking craft !! Thanks Bill.
They dont all have to fly. Some are just too pretty to risk. I hope to reach that point someday.

thymekiller

svaughn · Post by **svaughn** » Tue Mar 10, 2009 12:36 pm

I purchased a quart of SAMUEL CABOT 8064 WATER-BORNE SANDING SEALER through amazon. It is water-based. I'm hoping it doesn't stink too much. I'm planning on using it on the frame of a 500 FW-190 in the next couple of days.

The sanding sealer I used to use from SIG works great, but it requires very good ventilation. Not something you'd want to use in the house.

svaughn · Post by **svaughn** » Wed Mar 11, 2009 7:54 am

I did use the water based sanding sealer by Samuel Cabot on the frame of a FW-190 fuselage last night. It smells something like acrylic paint. Very low order. With in a few minutes there was no smell at all.

Too bad the smallest cans it comes in are 1 qt.

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 2:52 pm

This became an issue for me when I returned to model building, after a 30 year hiatus, because my wife has many allergies. Fortunately, techniques and materials had changed a bit since my Duco and dope days.

I started building with TiteBond II, aliphatic resin (yellow carpinter's glue) quite successfully, and recently changed to TiteBond III. No offensive odor, strong, waterproof, but once it's set, it's set...un-gluing is simply not possible. I think that the TiteBond II gives better results with balsa and may go back to it. I use a Monoject 412 irrigation syringe to apply the glue where I want it.

I do keep some Smith Brothers, medium thickness, gap filling, cyanoacrylate (super glue) around for difficult bonds and field repairs, but I don't use it much. When I have tried to build entire models with it I found that it is heavy and that I am sensitive to it myself.

I attach tissue and silkspan, both wet and dry, with Uhu gluestick (purple) and have been very happy with the results. I shrink dry applied tissue with 70% rubbing alcohol. It doesn't use all the shrink and if there are any wrinkles left I can apply straight water to the wrinkles to pull them tight.

I have had difficulty replacing dope for sealing the tissue while still keeping the models light enough for flying. So far, the best thing I have found is Krylon #1305 spray fixative. It works well, but is not completely waterproof, and while not as toxic as dope, I still have to use it outside. I have been experimenting with Future acrylic floor finish thinned with alcohol and sprayed with an air brush. Has possibilities, but more experimentation is needed. Thinned white glue works but is just too heavy for flying models. I have tried a very thin white glue mixed with Knox gelatin (makes it sandable), and may be sprayable with an open mix gun, but that's still an experiment.

For finishing, when I am not using colored tissue, I use Testor's Acryl or Tamaya acrylic paints. They have a full variety of authentic colors for aircraft. They airbrush well over Krylon fixative, or nitrate dope although I had one instance of the color going off when sprayed over dope. I have also airbrushed with acrylic artist's ink which is more expensive than the acrylic paints, but seems to be lighter.

I still have not found anything as good as thinned nitrate dope mixed with talcum powder for balsa sanding sealer. Until I can find a non-toxic, non-odoriferous substitute all frame sealing will have to stay out in the garage when my wife is not around.

Hope this helps.

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Sun Apr 05, 2009 7:57 am

Thanks for all the info folks I have been almost completely converted to the airbrush. When the wife isn't looking I'm going for a small hole in the floor next to my work table , compressor in the basement and presto. My experience with the latex was mixed ,but succesful. Not the greatest results as for shiny finish and it must weigh as much as the plane itself. As long as it doesn,t pull the hook out of the ceiling I'll be fine. Sounds like my coffee is done so,later