Newbie

KySteve · Post by **KySteve** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:29 pm

Hey Gang. New guy here. Built first Guillows model in 1978. 31 years later and kids gone. Never forgot the fun. Starting small with a Javelin. I've been reading your post for about two weeks now and already have learned so much. I keep thinking if I can build this again I'll do so much better. I know in the coming weeks I'll have a thousand questions but I'll start with only one. The balsa I've seen in the hobby shops seem to be better than the kit balsa. It's fine now because most mistakes I make are mine. I would like to build my next one with kit balsa and then do a "do over" with store balsa. Would this give me a better finish or am I kidding myself and need to work on technique. Have any of you done this. Also, if you have tried this what is the best way to transfer the print patterns to the unmarked balsa. Thanks in advance for any information you can give.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:20 pm

Store bough balsa is lighter. Lighter is better. I recommend building the first one from kit wood, then incorperate your changes into the second one.
There are many ways to tranpose parts outlines onto wood. Photocopy the plans , then cut and gluestick the copyied pieces onto the balsa and cut out the parts. Another way is to trace the parts onto tissue , then glue stick and cut out.
Hope this helps.

thymekiller

dbcisco · Post by **dbcisco** » Mon Apr 13, 2009 9:59 pm

I have had success with carbon paper and scribing right onto sheet wood. The scribe is a tool for using carbon paper without damaging the original. It looks like a paintbrush with a metal loop on the end.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 6:58 pm

Sounds good. I will try that. Thanks.

thymekiller

bsadonkill · Post by **bsadonkill** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:34 am

Another methed of transfering drawing parts to balsa wood is by ironing them on. By making copies of your wing ribs, formers, rudder, stab outlines on a copy machine set at max darkness, you can then iron them on to yuor wood. There is one down side, that is heating your wood on one side will cause it to warp, but i did manage to heat the opposite side and straighten back out again.

dbcisco · Post by **dbcisco** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:08 pm

bsadonkill wrote:Another methed of transfering drawing parts to balsa wood is by ironing them on. By making copies of your wing ribs, formers, rudder, stab outlines on a copy machine set at max darkness, you can then iron them on to yuor wood. There is one down side, that is heating your wood on one side will cause it to warp, but i did manage to heat the opposite side and straighten back out again.

Excellent tip! I have to try that! Thanks!

SteveM · Post by **SteveM** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 12:41 pm

http://www.ffscale.co.uk/comp2.htm

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 4:28 pm

I scan my plans, print out the parts outlines, and glue them to the balsa using a 3M Repositionable Glue Stick (It's Post-It note glue). Cut the parts out, sand to the outline and pull the paper off.

A little work with your favorite photo editor software and you can assemble complete parts sheets to print out.

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 1:31 pm

I have used numerous methods of transfering parts onto wood over the years. Now I use this method and this is by far the easist. I now use Avery large removeable label paper and this stuff is awsome.
Here is the amazon link, You can find this cheaper in the stores:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00007 ... highlight=