Questions about tissue covering

KySteve · Post by **KySteve** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 3:48 pm

Can anyone tell me the reason why you put dope on the wood-sand lightly-and then after it dries put the tissue on. Perhaps I misunderstood but I'm sure that what it suggested. Also what's the pros and cons on using either dope or elmers to attach the tissue to the wood. Thanks

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Tue Apr 14, 2009 7:10 pm

Putting the dope on the wood first, helps give a smoother surface to bond to. It also seals the wood, like primer before paint. I have never done it, thats what I heard.

It seems that the biggest differance between dope and white glue for attaching tissue is the smell. Its a personel choice. I use elmers gluestick, but some folks dont care for it. The main hazard to useing white glue to attach, is when you water shrink, dont overdo the water or your tissue will release. I have learned to gently work up to final tightness, instead of trying to get it all the first time.

Mostly it depends on your personel choice. What works best for you. There are many ways to get there.

thymekiller

bsadonkill · Post by **bsadonkill** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 11:11 am

To cover a model using 50/50 clear dope and thinner . You just coat the areas where you what to attach your tissue. About three coats will do, your wood will have a shining apearance. Lightly sand your wood after each coat. Then when its time to cover, cut out a piece of tissue to cover the section of frame your working on. To attach your tissue, lay your cut out piece on the section of frame, then take a Q-tip and dip it in dope thinner and run it along the edge of your tissue. The tissue will be attached to the frame in about 15 seconds, the time it takes for the thinner to dry.
After all your sections are covered you can shrink your tissue by spraying it with water or rubbing alcohol. Make sure you pin down your wings and tall surfaces, to keep them from warping. After assembling your model , paint your model with one to two coats of 50/50 clear dope and thinner. This will seal and toughen up your tissue.
This method is called dry covering, this is my favorite way to cover a flying rubber powered airplane.

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 4:38 pm

Putting at least one coat of thinned (50/50) dope on the surfaces where the tissue will touch and letting it dry raises up any loose wood fibers (fuzz) so that a light sanding with fine paper will cut it off. You do this to any surface that the tissue will touch , not just the surfaces where you adhere the tissue That way you have a smoother tissue job no matter if you use dope, white glue, or glue stick to attach the tissue.

KySteve · Post by **KySteve** » Sat Apr 18, 2009 8:22 pm

Thanks for all the advice. I plan on trying all the suggestions and see which ones work out for me Thanks again

KySteve · Post by **KySteve** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 7:07 pm

Just to clairify. When putting on the tissue do you just put adhesive on the outer edges or any where it touches wood?

kittyfritters · Post by **kittyfritters** » Sun Apr 19, 2009 8:51 pm

Good question and not necessarily obvious if you haven't done it before. You put the adhesive on the outer edges of the area being covered. Leading, edges and end ribs of a wing section, for example, or the outer edges of a section of fuselage. You want the tissue to tighten smoothly over the area in between.

This is why careful preparation of the frame before covering is essential. Any tiny bump, a glue drop, unsanded balsa fuzz, a crosspiece that is sticking out that you should have sanded flush will stick out as an obvious bump when the tissue is tight.

thymekiller · Post by **thymekiller** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 7:13 am

kittyfritters is correct. The tissue will hide NOTHING. Might make it worse. That is why careful prep work is important.
Otherwise, they look like mine....

thymekiller

Thewonderfrog · Post by **Thewonderfrog** » Mon Apr 20, 2009 6:01 pm

I found that the tissue guillow sells separately..part # GUI122 or just product #122. this tissue is WAY better than the kit supplied stuff. I think its called silkspan if im not mistaken. Much easier to cover wet and then brush on dope and let it dry. Very good results. Takes about 1/2 the time to do well as the kit supplied ( John Wayne paper) stuff and you can do large sections when it is wet, further making things quicker.

#1 thing to making tissue look good? Make sure you sand everything really well, each tiny imperfection becomes a huge eyesore once covered.