preparing wood for covering

errolprowse · Post by **errolprowse** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 7:28 pm

I have been making some models lately, p-40/piper cub/hurricane, and have been using white glue and water 50/50. I have only brushed it on and slapped the tissue down with pretty good results. i have read that you can put the glue/water mixture on to "seal the pores" of the wood. I have also read that it makes the whole plane a little bit stronger. Does white glue make the plane heavier when you do this? Could i use elmers carpenter glue for better results? would it be heavier if i used that kind instead? If you want a good flying plane should you not seal the pores so that its lighter?

thanks!
(im about to cover a guillows arrow, but i want it to be covered right for flying)

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Tue Sep 15, 2009 9:01 pm

I, too use the carpenters glue which surprised me on how good it really does work compared to the old butyrates and nitrates. You have to put up with the longer drying times but it's well worth the air quality especially when working indoors. Putting one coat of 50% on the wood you are applying fabric to, than sanding the scruff off the balsa and applying another coat making sure to let each coat dry thoroughly. You may want to check for any more whiskers for a smooth application of the fabric. You could put a whole lot of glue on those formers and stringers making it as heavy as you like for me I just coat the surfaces directly in contact with the fabric keeping warpage to a minimum along with weight and drying times. As for application on the fabric an airbrush has got me so absolutely spoiled I'll just stop here.

errolprowse · Post by **errolprowse** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 10:08 am

cliffm wrote:I, too use the carpenters glue which surprised me on how good it really does work compared to the old butyrates and nitrates. You have to put up with the longer drying times but it's well worth the air quality especially when working indoors. Putting one coat of 50% on the wood you are applying fabric to, than sanding the scruff off the balsa and applying another coat making sure to let each coat dry thoroughly. You may want to check for any more whiskers for a smooth application of the fabric. You could put a whole lot of glue on those formers and stringers making it as heavy as you like for me I just coat the surfaces directly in contact with the fabric keeping warpage to a minimum along with weight and drying times. As for application on the fabric an airbrush has got me so absolutely spoiled I'll just stop here.

i totally agree with you on working indoors with the other glues...

do you think theres any difference in wieght or stregnth of white glue compared to carpenters glue??

thanks for the advice on where to coat it to avoid warpage

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Wed Sep 16, 2009 12:09 pm

If your glue joints are prepped as well as your covering process you should'nt have to worry about either of these glues strength. Although I think the carpenters glue is probably stronger and the white glue lighter.If you have doubts about the abilities of a glue in certain situations make a test coupon out of some scrap. Experiment, Experience. later

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Fri Sep 18, 2009 8:56 pm

I have been using 50/50 White glue for many years without sealing the wood first. I know people who like sealing the wood first with 25/75 dope/thinner 2 to 3 coats. Then brushing on the white glue. They do this so they have time to adjust the tissue before the glue gets soaked up by the wood. Since I don't adjust my tissue much it is not really a concern. Also the dope as a sealer would be lighter than 50/50 glue.

errolprowse · Post by **errolprowse** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 12:21 pm

i understand why to use the dope, but i dont like being around that stuff, id rather have my brain in proper functioning order than to have a nicely covered airplane. I will try and experiment with spare pieces of balsa, i will weigh them and test there stregnth by using only elmers carpenter or white glue.

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Sun Sep 20, 2009 3:53 pm

I have used dope for close to 30 years, no problems. Just give our self some ventilation and use common sense.

BillParker · Post by **BillParker** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 12:53 pm

So, I'm covering these stukas. First time in a while using silkspan.

I had a moment of clarity this morning, and ran over to the drugstore and pick up one of these "gluestix" that everybuddy's been crowing about.

Whomever came up with this is a genius, and I owe him a steak dinner!

I put two coats of 50/50 dope on the wood, (uh... I work in the garage with a fan...) and then started sticking the silkspan on. Smooth as a baby's buttocks! Pics on the Stuka thread shortly...

bp

Xanadu · Post by **Xanadu** » Mon Sep 21, 2009 6:27 pm

You used silkspan this time!

Can hardly wait to see the results............

MickeyB49 · Post by **MickeyB49** » Wed Sep 23, 2009 5:38 pm

Hi all, I have been using dope to prepare my models. I use silkspan to cover. I realize the models I am building so far are relatively inexpensive (P40, FW190, and Spitfire) but I put a lot of time into building them and do my best to make them look good. My results are nowhere near what I have seen on here. I am interested in knowing from those of you who use the white glue method, how do you keep the glue from "running" off of the fuselage or wing and drying where it does not cover well? I have been using apliphatic resin glue to put the plane together and have experienced this problem. I switched over from using Testor's model airplane wood glue after reading posts on here. I am now wantin to switch to another method for preparation for covering because dope is getting relatively difficult to find and costs as much almost as the models I am building. Any input would be greatly appreciated. Thank you all

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Thu Sep 24, 2009 9:37 pm

MickeyB49, I only use Elmers white glue all for all my builds and have never had any issues. For applying tissue I just use 50/50 thinned white glue and brush it on. I then place the tissue onto the frame and and press the tissue down. I still use dope 50/50 to brush over the tissue when everything has been shrunk.