Fuselage Form Notches

hurt138 · Post by **hurt138** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 11:50 am

Hello,

I am doing a 500 series MESSERSCHMITT BF-109. I am having a horrible time cutting out the Fuselage Form Notches. They tend to just break off corners, etc. I have done a 400 series model and had no issues. I am guessing it is just the quality of the wood and the smaller scale causing this issue.

Anyone have any tips for cutting the notches in the smaller forms other than just cutting it and hoping for the best?

BillParker · Post by **BillParker** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 12:09 pm

You can always make your own out of hand selected, (by you) balsa from the LHS/Craft Store/Michaels/Hobby Lobby...

It's what I do...

hurt138 · Post by **hurt138** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 12:25 pm

Yes that is always a option. I might try using two smaller scrap sections on top or bottom to add some support while I cut it. I am not sure why I didn't think of this while I was working on it last night, but I will see if that helps.

I do find the quality of wood in the smaller kits is not nearly as nice as the larger scale kits they have.

BillParker · Post by **BillParker** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:26 pm

I agree. This is why I blow em to 100" and make the parts out of 1/4 pine ply...

lukebozek1 · Post by **lukebozek1** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 2:28 pm

That is a pretty common problem. I have read about sanding the back side of the die cast sheets to make it easier to cut these parts out; I started doing repairs with 1/16 glued in stringer material. You could try cutting the notches with a Dremel with a sanding disc which works pretty well also. It always appears that these pieces break at a former at a sharp turn like in the Spitfire where you end up losing the definition you wanted to keep. But I think you heard the right answer already. Even when the dies wear out, the Guillows plans still provide you with a nice former and rib outline which you can duplicate pretty easily, and you do get a nicer part. Besides it will be good practice for the West Wings or EZ-Built kits when you get really bored. Good luck!

hurt138 · Post by **hurt138** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 3:43 pm

Thanks for the replies. I am not planning to fly this at all so I might get some thicker stock to build from.

BillParker · Post by **BillParker** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 5:32 pm

You know, with those tiny parts, you might be well advised to stick with 1/16th...

The thicker 3/32 or even 1/8 is harder to notch at that scale. If you were making bigger formers, of course you'd want thicker, but when you start working with some godd/decent quality wood, you'll do fine...

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Mon Aug 30, 2010 8:24 pm

When I am forced to work with some of the more dreary pieces keeping the Elmers very close at hand to immediately put some glue on the offending member and let it set on some wax paper until thoroughly dry. The worst kit for bad formers was the DC-3. While filling my Zippo I was very very tempted. Thank guillows for the good plans so I could make a couple replacements. Balsa to me is really hard to judge just by looks, so it's kinda hard to knock suppliers for a bad piece once in a while.

hurt138 · Post by **hurt138** » Tue Aug 31, 2010 9:49 am

Yah I don't know if its so much "bad" wood, but when cutting the notches that go against the grain that small it thend to just break on the grain in the corners.

wmikedavis · Post by **wmikedavis** » Tue Aug 31, 2010 11:32 am

I took a 32TPI hacksaw blade, broke it in half and CA glued the two pieces together side by side carefully aligning the the teeth. This makes an almost perfect 1/16" notching tool. Mark your formers using the plans layout, pair up "like" pieces and saw out the notches. There are many weak points on the formers do to wood grain. I have found that wicking a small amount of CA glue on these spots and letting it dry before nothching helps but not always. When a piece does break off, I glue the piece back on before it gets lost.I have just completed the wing for a Spirit of St. Louis, it was easy to align all the ribs (19) clamp together and notch for the spars.

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Tue Aug 31, 2010 12:33 pm

I used to be real perticular about the little broken pieces on the notches but now it has to be at least 1/8 or better to concern me. After assembly I just take some filler and do the bondo thing. Building something just to look at rather than fly has this advantage.

jim · Post by **jim** » Tue Aug 31, 2010 12:44 pm

hi not sure if it helps but i use a cutting mat i think they prolong blade life the one i have is a JAKAR cutting mat i also use a really long pointed blade for notching and removing parts with just a snip downwards seems to work well for me good luck:)

hurt138 · Post by **hurt138** » Wed Sep 01, 2010 1:21 pm

All great tips! I will play with each on my own and see which I like best. I am fixing some of the first ones I already cut with spare balsa scrap's and sanding they flush.

dfrank47 · Post by **dfrank47** » Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:12 pm

I use a very small detail file to add notches in formers. The set I have has many different shapes and thicknesses to choose from. If I run across soft balsa, I use CA to stiffen it up. Just my 2 cents.

sandbobber · Post by **sandbobber** » Thu Sep 02, 2010 4:34 pm

While I've only done a couple of the 500 series kits, I've found that a pair of wire cutters makes the notching easier.

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