Woodland Scenic Cement for Tissue Covering?

wlester · Post by **wlester** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 12:59 pm

I've begun my first model plane in about 50 years. The wood component assembly went well. The store where I purchsed the BF 109 kit recommended Woodland Scenic Cement as an adhesive for the tissue as well as for use as a replacement for dope which they no longer sell. The fuselage covering went fairly well. Brushing additional coats seemed to work well but had the effect of raising the grain in the wood which has proven difficult to sand out because I'm afraid of shredding the tissue covering. The horizontal stabilizer and rudder were more difficult as the 2 tissue surfaces are only 1/16" apart and each re-coating tended to sag the tissue and cause it to stick to the underlying layer. I finally sorted that out after re-covering them a few times. The wings have proven the most frustrating but after replacing each section that ended up wrinkling I finally have a wing that I am satisfied with. My question is how should I approach the additional coats to seal the tissue without it sticking to the underlying area at the leading and trailing edges where the 2 surfaces are so close to the horizontal wood framing? Can anyone offer me some advice? Do I need to recoat the tissue or can I go straight to a primer coat of paint?

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Thu Mar 03, 2011 3:45 pm

if what you are using is making the tissue sag so much that it sticks to the opposite side on the stab then i personally wouldnt use it. i assume you sprayed it will water gently until the tissue was taught. a lot of people prefeer white glue or a glue stick, but i guess you use whatever works best. i wish i could see what you are talking about. does that adhesive you are using really make the tissue sag, or is it somthing else? i never have problems with that when im doping. nitrate dope doesnt make it sag very much at all.

wlester · Post by **wlester** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 8:46 am

I initially applied the tissue dry and then sparayed it with water to tighten it. The problem with that was that the wet cement at the glue lines caused wrinkles there. Sometimes they came out - sometimes not. Applying the tissue wet seems to work better for me. This cement is a dilute white glue. It doesn't seem to cause tissue to sag any more than water does. It's just that when the underlying surface is only a 1/16" away, the wet material contacts it and sticks to it. I had someone locally suggest the use of shellac as dope is difficult to get.

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:01 am

i usually when i cover my tail surfaces i paint glue onto every bit that will touch the tissue, then i put the tissue down on the table and flip my part over and drop it on. then i press and rub my fingers around the edges and such to make sure the glue is sticking nicely. that works for me. even on skinier parts that are 1/20". just spraying very lightly works for me.

wlester · Post by **wlester** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:20 am

Do you apply your tissue dry and then water spray? When you apply the dope, I assume you do one side at a time and let it dry?

wlester · Post by **wlester** » Fri Mar 04, 2011 9:59 am

I'm in the process of doing that right now. Excellent article. Thanks