F4U-4 Corsair to U Control

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supercruiser
Posts: 405
Joined: Wed Jun 15, 2005 8:47 am

Post by supercruiser »

Do you have the special wrenches for the glow head? Remove the glow head and if it the crankshaft doesn't turn then, there is a big problem down inside the motor.
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

i already have removed the hole compression wall and all, and there isnt a problem with the turning of the crank shaft. i will get more fuel, and a better tank and hook it up this weekend to give it another shot.
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

ive had something like this happen to another engine of mine. the crank shaft free wheels just fine. on closer inspection, the issue could only take place in 1- the piston or 2- the compression chamber. ive noticed that it starts to jam up even before (a couple of mm) the piston head begins compression. i mean that the piston doesnt close the exaust hole. the thing is, it happened so fast. i only tried to start it once. it deff happened right after i added too much fuel. i have already attempted to clean all of the parts. they are clean. even the inside of the compression chamber and the pistion are clean. i cant find what could possibly be making this motor jam up like this. :evil:
mustangman
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Post by mustangman »

Well if i can ever get signed up for photo bucket then i will post pics!!! :roll: :shock:
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

Ok I got it fixed up. Tried to start it with no luck. I got it to start q little. I just need to find the engines sweet spot and start it q few times. It hasn't been used in a while
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

just got my work area situated for the most part.

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Let the building continue! still not sure how the tank goes in FOR SURE so im waiting on the fuse for someone to explain. id hate to put it in wrong and realize it too late.

stab parts have been made from 3/32" balsa. since the stuff was so old, it was really stiff so im not worried about how strong it is. [/img]
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

some progress

tail feathers made. got the hinges attached to the stab. i used some wire that i cut some off so then there is a more pointed en of the wire to cut the slots for my cloth. i think it does an alright job. on display models i usually just use clear plastic, and cut a thin slot with my razor.


you can see my lines i made with a sharpie, which ensured that i am cutting my slots on target and everything will be lined up with the elevator when attached to the stab.
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i used expoxy to take care of glueing, as CA glue will soak the cloth and harden it, wich will eventually snap it. in fact, with that white cloth in the kits (i didnt use it) i have put some thin CA on it, and it actually smokes and heats up. never did that again...


rudder built up. angled out 1/4" to keep lines tought... maybe a little more, but it cant hurt.

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Pulsepilot
Posts: 25
Joined: Wed Mar 09, 2011 9:15 pm
Location: Greenville, South Carolina

Post by Pulsepilot »

Nice work

What do you plan to use for fuel proofing?

And this is probobly a silly question, but you think a kit out of this series might fly on a reed valve .049?
Current favorite airplane: P-40 warhawk, F-35 is close second
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

i dont think so. you want over power rather than under power...
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

oh, and i will just used aerogloss dope from my LHS thinned with nail polish remover. ill try to find some navy blue fuel proof colored dope, but am skeptical as to finding it. i will probably have to order online.
cliffm
Posts: 370
Joined: Fri Feb 27, 2009 11:08 am
Location: fairdale N D

Post by cliffm »

I know it's a while back,but an .049 with a 3 blade prop used to haul an old F-100 u-control around the round quite good, as I remember the thing screamed. The trick is in getting a prop that will let the engine turn in the rpm range where it creates its power and make sure you have quality fuel. The balance of a prop will make a world of difference in performance too. Also, starting out with a not so high performance plane will give you a little insight into your planes handling before you turn it into a rocket.
cliffm
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Location: fairdale N D

Post by cliffm »

I just read some more of your thread and your fuel tank has a supply and a vent and a fill. the angled one would go to the engine and the other 2 are vent and fill. Get some fuel proof plastic tubing at an auto parts store, it's way cheaper. The stuff I use is called Tygon, mount your tank so the angled fitting is on the bottom facing the engine, then plumb your other lines to a secure bulkhead. When you install the vent and fill make a trap by using the same principle as the trap under a sink, this will help with preventing fuel spewing from a straight run line. Hope this helps,and good flying.
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

what do you mean by the drain trap? and does the top of the rectangular prism to towards the outside of the circle?
BillParker
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Post by BillParker »

William H. Parker Jr. (Bill Parker)
President, Parker Information Resources
http://www.parkerinfo.com/ap.htm bparker@parkerinfo.com
ADW 123
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Post by ADW 123 »

thanks Mr. Parker.
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