Paint Problem

Ken Miller · Post by **Ken Miller** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 2:47 pm

I know a lot of discussion has gone on about painting and I have read all of them but have not seen any discussion on what I have experencied. I have planked my Hellcat and used Hobbylite and lightweight spackling to fill. I was not satisified with what I got and now know what to do next time. I used Rust-Oleum (Painter's Touch) primer and was satisifed with the finish so I proceded to paint with acrylic paint. After a few coats, all with a 10-12 hr drying time, I masked with blue painters tape and when I took it off the paint had bleed under it. I had read that you could use scotch tape for masking with acrylic paint so I tried that. When I pulled the tape off the lines were perfect except in some areas the paint was pulled off down to the primer. I assume that the primer and acrylic are not compatible so I found some Rust-Oleum colors I could live with and masked with painters tape and everything came out great. It seemed that spraying worked well and I had no problem when I removed the tape.

Wow, that sentence is way toooo long so I guess I get a D for writing. I do like the finish I get with the spray primer but I want to have the flexibility of the acrylic paint (hard to touch up with a spray can) and the wide variety of colors available. I can't invest in a spray gun at this time.

Not sure if I need to avoid spray primer and acrylic paint combo or if I need a different way of maaking. Any help would be appreciated.

scigs30 · Post by **scigs30** » Sun Feb 28, 2010 10:28 pm

Trust me, there is no problems with Primers and Acrylics. Still I like to the let the primer dry 24 hours before painting. I use Tamyia masking tape and very rarely have bleed. The important thing is to burnish the tape down nice and tight to prevent bleed. Then paint in light coats. Also you can mask, spray a coat of Testors dullcoat, then paint your top coat.

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Mon Mar 01, 2010 11:50 am

does anyone put thinned clear dope on after covering, then paint using colored dope?

Ken Miller · Post by **Ken Miller** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 6:17 pm

I wish I could figure a way to post pictures of the big pieces of the paint pulled off and the primer showing. Believe me it is a problem for me.

ADW 123 · Post by **ADW 123** » Wed Mar 10, 2010 7:33 pm

go to photobucket and make an account, save ur photoes on ur computer, then download them to photobucket... there will be a direct link box underneath the picture wen u done... then open this forum, reply, click on the image button above the box that u type in, paste the link, then click the image button again then submit

Ken Miller · Post by **Ken Miller** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 2:12 pm

Ken Miller · Post by **Ken Miller** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 2:21 pm

Well the picture didn't appear only the link. As I said I used the spray primer and then painted with seven coats of acrylic paint. I brushed on the paint. I then masked and tested a small area again using a brush. This was the result when the masking was removed. Everything is fine when it is spray painted using the paint that is by the same manufacturer as the spray primer (Rust-oleum/Painter's Chaice).

Ken Miller · Post by **Ken Miller** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 2:27 pm

BillParker · Post by **BillParker** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 3:57 pm

there ya go...

Ken Miller · Post by **Ken Miller** » Fri Mar 12, 2010 4:55 pm

Great! How did you get it to show up? Thanks

cliffm · Post by **cliffm** » Sun Mar 14, 2010 2:43 pm

Did you sand between coats? Or a light brush of steel or bronze wool. Just enough to take the sheen off. This usually will give you a better surface for the next coat to bond too.

lukebozek1 · Post by **lukebozek1** » Fri Aug 13, 2010 9:16 am

The way it looks in the picture isn't just some paint bleeding under the masking tape, but paint being lifted when the tape is removed. It could happen because the paint under the taped areas isn't completely dry, or the tape you use is more than tacky. I use plain masking tape and airbrush and have no problems. But I just used the Rustoleum primer you mentioned and must admit that there it leaves a surface finish behind that feels very rough. I liked the visual results though, quick, cheap and cleaner than dealing with the set-up and takedown of the airbrush. I use Tamiya acrylics with great results, but they are not cheap and I have accumulated a shoebox of two layers of various colors, that never match what I work on. I guess that I am not sure that the primer puts down a solid and smooth base for adhesion. I do know that when I used to brush my colored dope on, I would get bleed through occasionally, but this is just a layer that is lifting off. Good luck

Guillow's Model Builders Forum

Paint Problem

Paint Problem

Lack of adhesion?