Application of kit decals/painting(Testors spray)

[Balsa Pilot]

good morning all!
this is a task I have always dreaded as they never seem to adhere well. I have now purchased a product called Model Master "decal setting solution"
Anybody have any ideas on how to do a better job?

I'm just finishing up a Cessna 170 Kit 302 I think that has turned out very nicely, although I'm having troubles with paint bleed through with the masking tape. It's scotch brand lo-tack, and it would be nice to find something that did work well.

Any ideas would be helpful,Have a great day!

Henry

[Mitch]

As with any modeling, decals need to stick to a smooth shinny surface. My best luck was on a few coats of dope the paper is sealed well and shinny. Sounds like you already painted your model. What I have done recently is make color photo copies of the decals. Also this way I can make my own 'paper' decals very easily. These then are glued to the finished painted model with a glue stick. This works for me and hope it will give you new ideas.

Also when my model suffers damage, I have the decals as "Masters" and can reproduced the required markings again.

If you are making for display and want to use the decals, the way plastic modelers do it is have the model covered with a shinny clear coat, then apply the decals, then spray again with a final dull coat finish.

Hope this helps, Mitch

[pedwards2932]

One of the tricks I have heard to prevent bleed thru is to after you have taped it you spray with clear coat first especially at the edge of the tape then only the clear bleeds thru. The models I have seen done this way don't seem to have any bleed thru.

[42swing]

The decal setting solutions are designed to "soften" the decal to allow it to conform to detail and compound curves and avoid "silvering", the trapping of air under the decal. The solutions work differently on different makes of decals though, some really effect the decal making it wrinkle up but then flatten out as it dries. Others don't seem to effect the decal at all. Very important the surface is very glossy, get the decal exactly where you want it before applying the solution, then don't touch it until completely dry. Wipe off any residue, then redcoat with gloss or flat finish.

May or may not help with an adhesion problem, but generally decals will adhere to a glossy surface.

[kittyfritters]

I've given up on decals. I usually make my own printed tissue markings. (I can't call them tissuecals since that name is copyrighted by EasyBuilt.) If I can't use printed tissue I get out my Frog Tape Delicate Surface, mask and airbrush. And sometimes, I draw markings freehand using a gel pen or felt tip paint stick.

[Chris A.]

Good suggestion on preventing bleed through on tape edges. I use blue masking tape and find if I let it set a few minutes, bleed through is less of a problem. After covering and coloring, I mist spray a light coat of clear Krylon. I've had no problems with adhesion using the spray mist method. Caution, use the Krylon outside..

[NcGunny]

When spraying with your airbrush try not to direct your paint into the tapes edge. This will cause a build up of excess paint and you will get bleed through. I always coat my tissue first with a clear dullcote then paint. For decals you can apply some Future or a shot of clearcoat first. It just seems most kit decals for balsa are thick and not the best to use..aka..they have used the cheapest product they can find. Any good softening agents will work.

[Bill Gaylord]

One of the tricks I use that helps with decal adhesion, is to take some of the decal material that does not have decals on it, wet it, and then lightly rub the wet water/glue mix from the decal paper onto the model with a finger, before applying the decal.

[Balsa Pilot]

Hi to all!
Thanks to, Mitch, pedwards,42 swing, Kittyfritters, ChrisA, NcGunny, and BillGaylord. Useful tips from everyone, and they should really help to solve the initial problem.

Next problem is the tape I used has pulled off the original base coat of white. Should I just re-spray the white after the red trim cures or is there a better way to do that?

It seems much easier to use the appropriately coloured tissue for flying models, instead of trying to be all "display" and paint the thing. The model is intended for my Uncle
who is forced into one of thoseretirement homes, and as he was the one who turned me onto this hobby it seemed appropriate. I guess its all part of the learning curve. Will try to post a couple of pictures as this one is turning out all "display-ish", and really looks cool!

Thanks again to all for the assistance, its appreciated.

Henry

[Bill Gaylord]

I've never been able to cure paint pulling. What I've done is to tape as thin of a line as possible, and then tape the mask paper to the tape, with the tape only covering the initial mask line. When I painted the B25 with Microlite covering, I had a number of pulls, as paint peels from the thin iron-on covering. With the mask lines only about 3mm wide, the touch up wasn't too difficult or noticeable.

[Balsa Pilot]

Thank you Bill, yes, that's a method I just stumbled onto and as you say, it at the least minimizes the pull away and touch ups are less of an issue.
That is a lovely B-25, or is it a what PB-3? Either way pretty ship.

When my wife (COMPUTER WHIZ) returns from her mothers I hope to post a few pics not only of the C-170, but a couple other projects as well.
Thanks for the assistance,again, its appreciated.

Henry

[Jimmy]

I've been using Micro-Sol for years. Check it out......