post
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npazzin
- Posts: 13
- Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am
Re: post
think i figured this out, not really a computer guy. anyway im buildin a f6f hellcat, anyone have any advice for a newbie?
also, what glue is everyone using? an whats "dope" ?
i got lots of questions, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
how do i put pics of my build on this site? im new to the whole forum thing
thanks in advance, npazzin
also, what glue is everyone using? an whats "dope" ?
how do i put pics of my build on this site? im new to the whole forum thing
thanks in advance, npazzin
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joecrouse
- Posts: 216
- Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:20 am
To answer your questions.
First,
Dope refers classically (back in the old days) to either nitrate or butyrate dope.
Nitrate Dope is to attach the tissue to the frame coat the tissue and shrink the tissue.
Butyrate dope is the same thing but is fuel proof.
There are 3 basic ways to cover planes
Glue Stick and wet tissue
This is where you take a glue stick either UHU Glue or simple Elmers glue Running it along the stringers and frame members, You then Cut and trim the tissue and the wet it down and apply it to the frame and stringers that you coated with the glue stick. This is perfect to cover large sections but tricky for compound curves. For excellent examples and demonstrations Look up Forum member Siggs30 (Forgive me If I got the spelling of your name incorrect).
The Dope and tissue method This is where you paint the frame section you are working on with thinned dope and apply the tissue dry then apply thinner to the edges of the tissue section to adhere the tissue to the dope. Then you would dope the entire section. This method is very slow going and will produce excellent results given time. This is the "Old school" way to do things.
The third method used mainly on the larger models is the Use of Mylar or other film type materials. Many MANY years ago You could create your own Celluloid in the bathtub. This would usually result in a minor beating (ok I frankly got my butt creased with a paddle ball paddle) from your mom BUT could produce excellent VERY light results. Modern Mylar and films are pre-made and a sticky backing that will stick to frames and is sealed and shrunk with a specialized iron. While slightly heavier they still provide excellent results with practice but they will be heavier usually to heavy to use in competition and free flight rubber models.
Please when posting a topic follow the Forum rules AND please post in complete and at least sort of grammatically correct English to the best of your ability.
Dope refers classically (back in the old days) to either nitrate or butyrate dope.
Nitrate Dope is to attach the tissue to the frame coat the tissue and shrink the tissue.
Butyrate dope is the same thing but is fuel proof.
There are 3 basic ways to cover planes
Glue Stick and wet tissue
This is where you take a glue stick either UHU Glue or simple Elmers glue Running it along the stringers and frame members, You then Cut and trim the tissue and the wet it down and apply it to the frame and stringers that you coated with the glue stick. This is perfect to cover large sections but tricky for compound curves. For excellent examples and demonstrations Look up Forum member Siggs30 (Forgive me If I got the spelling of your name incorrect).
The Dope and tissue method This is where you paint the frame section you are working on with thinned dope and apply the tissue dry then apply thinner to the edges of the tissue section to adhere the tissue to the dope. Then you would dope the entire section. This method is very slow going and will produce excellent results given time. This is the "Old school" way to do things.
The third method used mainly on the larger models is the Use of Mylar or other film type materials. Many MANY years ago You could create your own Celluloid in the bathtub. This would usually result in a minor beating (ok I frankly got my butt creased with a paddle ball paddle) from your mom BUT could produce excellent VERY light results. Modern Mylar and films are pre-made and a sticky backing that will stick to frames and is sealed and shrunk with a specialized iron. While slightly heavier they still provide excellent results with practice but they will be heavier usually to heavy to use in competition and free flight rubber models.
Please when posting a topic follow the Forum rules AND please post in complete and at least sort of grammatically correct English to the best of your ability.
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wmikedavis
- Posts: 44
- Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:37 pm
- Location: Seattle, WA
Re: post
napazzin,
When you log on, in the upper right hand corner, there is a search box.
Try it out...a ton of information is available..
When you log on, in the upper right hand corner, there is a search box.
Try it out...a ton of information is available..
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Bill Gaylord
- Posts: 904
- Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 1:29 pm
- Location: Grove City PA
Re: post
You may want to use a few more pins.
Sorry, couldn't pass that one up.
The little Hellcat is a nice build. From memory, it had some of the best cut and fitting die-cut parts of the lot.
Sorry, couldn't pass that one up.
The little Hellcat is a nice build. From memory, it had some of the best cut and fitting die-cut parts of the lot.