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Ask other modelers for a little help / knowledge ?
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npazzin
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am

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Post by npazzin »

how do i post a new topic since i try an post it but the pc says webpage cannot be displayed?
npazzin
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am

Re: post

Post by npazzin »

think i figured this out, not really a computer guy. anyway im buildin a f6f hellcat, anyone have any advice for a newbie?
also, what glue is everyone using? an whats "dope" ? :?: i got lots of questions, any advice would be greatly appreciated!
how do i put pics of my build on this site? im new to the whole forum thing

thanks in advance, npazzin
npazzin
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am

Re: post

Post by npazzin »

i wasn't joking about being new to this, im 31yrs old my dad used to do this thats why it sparked my interest. i would be really appreiciative of any advice!!!!!!!!!!!!
joecrouse
Posts: 216
Joined: Mon May 23, 2011 9:20 am

To answer your questions.

Post by joecrouse »

First,

Dope refers classically (back in the old days) to either nitrate or butyrate dope.
Nitrate Dope is to attach the tissue to the frame coat the tissue and shrink the tissue.
Butyrate dope is the same thing but is fuel proof.

There are 3 basic ways to cover planes

Glue Stick and wet tissue
This is where you take a glue stick either UHU Glue or simple Elmers glue Running it along the stringers and frame members, You then Cut and trim the tissue and the wet it down and apply it to the frame and stringers that you coated with the glue stick. This is perfect to cover large sections but tricky for compound curves. For excellent examples and demonstrations Look up Forum member Siggs30 (Forgive me If I got the spelling of your name incorrect).

The Dope and tissue method This is where you paint the frame section you are working on with thinned dope and apply the tissue dry then apply thinner to the edges of the tissue section to adhere the tissue to the dope. Then you would dope the entire section. This method is very slow going and will produce excellent results given time. This is the "Old school" way to do things.

The third method used mainly on the larger models is the Use of Mylar or other film type materials. Many MANY years ago You could create your own Celluloid in the bathtub. This would usually result in a minor beating (ok I frankly got my butt creased with a paddle ball paddle) from your mom BUT could produce excellent VERY light results. Modern Mylar and films are pre-made and a sticky backing that will stick to frames and is sealed and shrunk with a specialized iron. While slightly heavier they still provide excellent results with practice but they will be heavier usually to heavy to use in competition and free flight rubber models.

Please when posting a topic follow the Forum rules AND please post in complete and at least sort of grammatically correct English to the best of your ability.
wmikedavis
Posts: 44
Joined: Sun Nov 15, 2009 9:37 pm
Location: Seattle, WA

Re: post

Post by wmikedavis »

napazzin,
When you log on, in the upper right hand corner, there is a search box.
Try it out...a ton of information is available..
npazzin
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am

Re: post

Post by npazzin »

something told me that this was gonna be a good site! i didn't expect a reply that fast, much less criticism! thanks for the info fellas
npazzin
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am

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Post by npazzin »

Here is some progress.
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npazzin
Posts: 13
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Post by npazzin »

another
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npazzin
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Post by npazzin »

sorry, i posted these pics in reverse!
Bill Gaylord
Posts: 904
Joined: Sun Nov 09, 2008 1:29 pm
Location: Grove City PA

Re: post

Post by Bill Gaylord »

You may want to use a few more pins.
Sorry, couldn't pass that one up. :lol:

The little Hellcat is a nice build. From memory, it had some of the best cut and fitting die-cut parts of the lot.
npazzin
Posts: 13
Joined: Mon Aug 27, 2012 10:22 am

Re: post

Post by npazzin »

Funny you say that, put the same picture on facebook and no one said anything!!! Pun implied
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